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I am rebuiding the rear bearings on my '65 and starting to set the clearances (with all new bearings and races). I started with the original shim but had zero clearance so took it apart and put in the largest shim in the set of nine I purchased. I still have zero clearance on both sides using the largest shim. Am I missing something? Thanks for any suggestions, Don H.
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Re: 1965 spindle clearance
Don-----
Yes, there is definitely something wrong. The very first thing that I would suggest doing is to mic the thickness of the bearing inner races (the ones on the inside perimeter of the rollers and part of the integral bearing assemblies). The thickness of these should be very close to the thickness of the ones that you removed. I doubt that there's a problem here unless you got some bogus, inferior bearings. With brands like Delco, Timken, SKF, etc you should not have a problem. In any event, I recommend checking this first since it's easy to do.
Next, I would check to be sure that the bearing outer races (the ones that press into the spindle support) are FULLY seated in the cavities. These MUST be driven FULLY home with a bearing race driver. Failure to have the reaces fully seated will cause the problem that you describe. The cavities for the races MUST be scrupulously clean before the races are inserted and driven home.
Another discrepency that can cause this problem is failure to have the outer bearing FULLY pressed onto the spindle bearing surface. The bearing must be fully seated onto the spindle. Usually, this will occur when you torque the spindle nut to 100 lb/ft. But, if there is a burr or if the bearing got "cocked", the bearing might not seat fully.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: 1965 spindle clearance
Don, I used a setup tool to select the correct shim and then put the spindle and bearings into the housing, torqued the nut and re-checked. My seals were cocked and prevented a correct measurement. I got them in straight and the post assembly measurement matched the setup measurement. The tool is expensive but if you're going to do this yourself it's a must. You only press bearings in once.Comment
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Re: 1965 spindle clearance
I have checked all the things Joe suggested except the width of the outer bearing as it is pressed on the spindle. So far everything is correct. I always removed .001 from the spindle where the inner bearing fits so it is no longer a press fit. Using a "spindle knocker" they can be removed fairly easily but still are a tight fit. I did not check the seal as I installed it but will next time. A friend is coming over to give his opinion, Thanks for the suggestions. Don H.Comment
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Ah the answer is
that I am not real bright sometimes. I was not making sure the outer seal was going into the housing, thus the bind. It has been about 15 years since I did a mid-year (you know what they say about excuses). Thanks, Don H.Comment
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Re: Ah the answer is
Don-----
Did the outer seal prevent the outer bearing from fully seating on the spindle race? That's the only reason that I can think of that you would have ended up with no end play using the thickest shim. Just the failure of the outer seal to be seated in the spindle support with the outer bearing fully seated on the spindle race should not cause the end play condition that you described.
The best way to do this installation is to install the outer bearing and fully seat the seal in the spindle support. Then, press or draw the spindle through the bearing, fully seating the bearing on the spindle race.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Ah the answer is
Joe,
That is exactly what happened. The next time Iseated it and was able to check the clearance and "dial it in". Thank goodness I took .001 off the spindle where the inner bearing rides and have a spindle knocker. I probably had them in and out 8-10 times. Thanks again, Don H.Comment
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Re: Ah the answer is
Don - glad to hear you figured it out, but reducing the OD of the spindle to create easier removal and installation is what Chevrolet "undid" on the 63 spindles doe to bearing troubles. You may never have a problem, but most reputable rebuilders such as Charley Smith make a point of keeping the full interference fit on the bearings, and use the correct tools....CraigComment
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Re: Ah the answer is
Craig,
I would not do the "slip fit" (reduce size of spindle under inner bearing) if the car were going to be raced or stressed. My car is a 300 auto w/AC so it will not be seeing any hard use - driver only. I have had other mid-years I did this to and put 60-80k miles on them with no problem. Also I only remove about .001 so you still have to pound on it pretty hard (thank you spindle knocker) to get out. Don H.Comment
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Re: Ah the answer is
Don - sounds like you have proven it out...but with the setup tool, all the adjusting is done with that for shims, then the final assembly is just pressed together and matches the clearance from the setup spindle tool. Anyway, I am sure you are in good shape...CraigComment
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