Removing Paint from Stamp Pad

[Dick Kindl]

Re: Removing Paint from Stamp Pad

At a Western NY Chapter meet, I was told to remove the paint from the engine stamp pad...or...take the hit. I took the hit on points but cleaned off the paint when I got back home. I used lacquer thinner applied carefully and frequently with a small camel-hair brush. Then rubbed with a lacquer thinner-soaked cloth. To remove the paint imbedded in the stamped numbers and letters, I took a large sewing needle and carefully followed each indentation while applying more lacquer thinner and ..VOILA !!! IT WORKED...NO PAINT. GOOD LUCK. Dick # 31008

[Eugene B.]

Re: The bottom line

Gents,
I think that Jack and Dennis have hit the nail on the head.

It is easy to fall into the pit of believing that the Judging Guide is the gospel regarding Corvette assembly. In this case, I think that we have concluded that the absence of paint on the stamp pad is an NCRS thing.

I agree that judging requires that the code be legible. If I were writing the JG, I would probably say something like "the engine pad must be clean and the code completely legible." In this case, clean means painted and clean. Just like the rest of the car.

Oh well, such is life. Don't get high on lacquer thinner.

Best regards and safe motoring,
Gene

[Rex P. Kelly]

stamp pad paint

On my '57, I tried laquer thinner to no avail and finally had to go to a paint stripper . It softened the paing then I scraped it with a wooden dowel cut on a 45 degree angle. Worked like a champ.

[Terry M.]

Re: The real bottom line for 68-72 *TL*

With all due respect to you Gene, to Jack and Dennis, et al:
I have seen the engine assembly instructions for both Flint and Tonawanda for the above referenced time period, and both specify no paint application to the stamp pad, as well as certain other areas - spark plug holes, engine mounting holes, exhaust manifold mounting surface, front of crankshaft vibration dampener, oil filter boss, transmission mounting surface and probably some places I have forgotten.
Many of us have spent quite a bit of time looking at Bowtie cars as well. My experience in observing original engines in this time frame is that the folks painting the engine assemblies for the most part followed the instructions. Even if they failed to cover the stamp pad at the engine paint station, which did happen on occasion, there is no reason for paint to be in the VIN derivative stamped characters since they were struck at the car assembly plant. Neither St. Louis, nor later Bowling Green, had the paint to apply to the engine. Nor would the car assembly plant have any reason to apply paint to the engine.
FWIW: Once the engines turn blue I understand that it is the norm for the pad to be painted, and the VIN derivative is clearly stamped after the metal was painted. The paint is thin enough that often the broach marks are visible through the paint.

[Ronnie Robertson # 36786]

Re: Paint Removal

You must use laquer remover manufactured no more than 6 months prior to your cars assembly date- or suffer major point loss!

[Dennis C.]

Re: Paint Removal

Yes !!! Ronnie gots it right. Dennis

[Eugene B.]

Re: The real bottom line for 68-72

Terry,
Thank you for your information and comments. An additional question for clarification. Your title line states that your information is for 68-72.

What similar comments about painted versus unpainted surfaces can you provide for the mid-years? My car is a '65 that is totally original.

Also, has there ever been an article published in the Restorer that provides detailed information similar to what you have stated above?

Thanks,
Gene

[Terry M.]

Re: The real bottom line for 68-72 *TL*

I have no written information about engine paint procedures for mid-years, that I am aware of. I once saw a story in Corvette News circa 1966 regarding the then new Mark IV engine assembly process that contained several photos of the Tonawanda engine paint process, but I do not have a copy of that issue. I have been in contact with a retired Flint employee who spent his entire career in the paint department at Flint Engine. He has offered to present a seminar on that subject at an NCRS meet, but arranging that has so far eluded me. There has been some discussion of engine paint details regarding mid-years on this board in the past. IIRC, it was about 1964-65 details.
There has been no article involving engine paint processes in The Corvette Restorer that I am aware of. Some details may have been mentioned in articles whose main focus has been other areas, but there is no way to track those. Sounds like some research begging for someone willing to do it.

[Eugene B.]

Re: Thanks

Terry,
Thank you for your response to my posting and questions.

There are so many areas that could be researched and documented. Interesting how there can be so much to learn about something, seeming so simple as painting an engine.

Regards,
Gene

[Chuck Swenson]

Re: Removing Paint?

I plan on putting some Pre Lube 6 from Quanta on mine to protect my horizontal broaches with no numbers.
Chuck

[Chuck Swenson]

Re: Removing Paint from Stamp Pad

It took me over an hour using laquer thinner and a wet soft rag to take off. I went through three sets of rubber gloves. I have a 66 NOS block with no numbers (blank pad) and I wanted to preserve the horizontal broach marks so I was extremely careful. There is some thin orange lines left in the horizontal marks, and I left them. I figured it would make it easier to see the marks. Quanta Pre Lube 6 hopefully will preserve. Engine in heated temp controlled garage too. It's sad that I get so excited over a blank engine pad with horizontal broach marks :-)

[Mike M.]

Re: Removing Paint from Stamp Pad

i wouldn't be sad if i came across a blank pad SBC, i'd be elated. good luck with your project. mike

[Chuck Swenson]

Re: Removing Paint from Stamp Pad

Thanks! The engine was started for the first time today. The NOS block and NOS heads were sitting in a heated garage since 1966. It was a great day!

Chuck