For your information. Interesting battery problem I had in the family car recently - it may apply to electrical problems some of you might have from time to time (rarely). My car would cut out sporadically while driving on the interstate, die at idle, not start after stalling. Symptoms included no lights, radio stations lost preset, intermittent coughs going down the road. Problem was that the + battery terminal had an intermittent connection inside the battery between the post and the internal plates. When I twisted the terminal, it would make contact and run the car until it vibrated enough to brake the connection. Problem went away with a new battery. Regards, John.
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Re: Battery technical trivia info
How longe did it take you to locate that?? -
Re: Battery technical trivia info
Must have been an AC Delco battery. I have had two of them leak battery acid around the positive battery terminal.Comment
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Re: Battery technical trivia info
The AC/Delco that came in my 2000 Tahoe also leaked at the positive post.
Caused a mess at the bottom tray.
Was replaced under warranty.
RichComment
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Re: Battery technical trivia info
I just had an experience with my wife's '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It had the original battery (4 1/2 years old) that had moderate corrosion on the + terminal. Car started and ran fine. I used a puller since, to my knowledge, it had never been off and I had to crank down on the puller to get it off, but it came off without banging on it. I cleaned both terminals and cables and put them back together, everything nice and shiny. Got in to move the car and----nothing when I turned the key (actually there ware a couple of very slow turns, then nothing but solenoid chatter.
Cleaned everything again, checked tightness and still nothing. A mechanic friend (through which I got a new battery) said that if you see corrosion on the top, there is some below the battery top, as well, and that disturbing the post on an old battery can separate it from the plates below.
It was one of two lessons: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", or "no good deed goes unpunished"!Comment
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Re: Battery technical trivia info
Larry, leaving corrosion around your battery terminals is probably one instance where "if it ain't broke..." doesn't fit. Eventually, the corrosion is going to stop current from flowing from the battery, and your wife will be trying to call you on her cell phone. I don't know about having corrosion under the battery top (color me skeptical), but I suspect there was another reason for the post failure.
Using a puller to remove a cable end is not a good idea, in fact, any method that applys significant force to the post is bad idea. After loosening the clamp bolt, try GENTLY rotating the cable end on the post by hand to break it free...if it doesn't rotate easily with little force, use a large screwdriver blade inserted between the clamped terminal sides to spread the cable end. A simple rotation of the screwdriver will accomplish the slight spreading that is required. After that, it should come off easily because the post has a slight taper.
I use a spray, non-hardening product by Permatex (dark red) that prevents corrosion on your battery posts...it's saved me a lot of work.Comment
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Re: Battery technical trivia info
John,
In my case the intermittent connecton inside the battery caused a spark and blew all the caps out (like little sky rockets) in one loud bang! Spark + combustible gas inside = explosion. Consider your self lucky. Regards,Comment
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Re: Battery technical trivia info
There is a puller that is specifically designed to assist in removing the battery terminals. It hooks over the terminal and presses down on the terminal, therefore not putting any pressure where it would do damage. Many batteries have been destroyed by twisting, tapping, prying, etc to remove the terminals. Many battery manufacturers in fact do recommend the use of the puller.Dick WhittingtonComment
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Re: Battery safety
And now we all know why safety glases should be used whenever working around an automobile. Jim, I would love to have you come and talk to my automotive students.TerryComment
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Re: Battery safety
This problem existed for about 2 months. At first I thought it was the accessory cable. The first time I noticed it was on the highway when the engine coughed and, with the slight interruption, kept running but the radio presets went away. When I got home, I cleaned the terminals and retightened everything. It was OK for a week or so and then one day I tried to start the car and it acted like a dead battery - no solenoid click - not even a dome light. When I put a little torque on the bolt, I noticed the dome light come on. That's when I realized that it must be intermittent connection inside the battery. John.Comment
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