Hairline cracks in paint � Advice needed!

[Douglas E.]

[Ed Jennings]

[Ralph Harlan]

[Chas Henderson #28127]

But don't they all start to craze

After awhile, don't all paint jobs craze? That is, if the car is used?

Chasman

[Ralph Harlan]

Re: But don't they all start to craze

Chas -

I would think that sooner or later most will show age. Not necessarily cracks. In this case, the car is used less than 500 miles a year (some 2,500 miles since paint), is garaged and not in the weather, so I would suspect that the few places that are showing cracks are a result of localized flexing combined with a thick layer of gel/primer/paint/clear topcoat.

My '64 didn't show cracks/crazing with metalflake paint after 5 years of hard use, in the weather every day, and some 60,000 miles running up & down the East coast from Florida to R.I. and out to Illinois. Chips from "door dings" yeah, but no crazing. But, as I said to begin, I am learning about the specifics of 'vettes after years of dealing with fiberglass boat repairs. I can tell you that boats that have a thick layer of gelcoat will craze plenty.

[Sydney G.]

Re: But don't they all start to craze

Hi Ralph,
What would be your recomendation for painting a stripped bare fiberglass body (number of coats etc.) to achieve a long lasting 'stress crack' free result?
Thanks,
Syd

[Douglas E.]

Thanks!

Thanks for all of the helpful info, folks!

[Ralph Harlan]

It's the thickness that counts . . .

the more coating you build up, the sooner it will start to crack. Gelcoat can be applied in fairly thick coats, which helps cover "pinholes" grinder scars, raw fiber, and a myriad of other sins, as well as help make that final "fair" contour. Just be sure to sand most of it back off during the "prep". Sometimes, I can almost see thru the gelcoat if I am painting over it. Most modern paints do not need a primer if sprayed directly to gelcoat - especially the linear, aromatic, aliphatic ureathanes (IMRON and similar products - 2 part catalyzed ureathanes), and they do not require a thick coat or multiple coats to get that deep gloss, extreme shine they are known for. Clear over can help with depth and gloss - as well as color retention, but (again) don't build it up thick. Be sure to wetsand (320) before the clearcoat if it is not applied within 24 hours (I know many say 72 hours - but don't count on it) so it won't flake or peel later. Besides, sanding the color coat (knocking off the dust, flaws, and gloss) before the clear helps for that final finish.

Lacquer or acrylic enamels are the same story - don't build up thick coats. Acrylic enamel can be almost poured on with a garden hose, and can build up quickly, so go easy. The idea is to get enough paint to make the color without building it up.

[Michael H.]