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66 Hood Latching

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  • Mario Andreoli

    66 Hood Latching

    Hi,

    My 66 hood keeps popping up (first passenger side then driver side) after some driving. What controls this the latching? What should I be adjusting?

    PS. Could I ever run into the situation where I adjust the latches too much in one direction and can't get the hood open? Is there an emergency release?

    Thanks in advance.

    Mario Andreoli
  • Bill W.
    Very Frequent User
    • November 1, 1977
    • 402

    #2
    Re: 66 Hood Latching

    Mornin' Mario,

    Start by inspecting the male portion of the hood latchs, these have a tendency to wear away on the edge. If this "edge",(or the coresponding lip that it mates with) is worn, replace it. If these parts check out fine then hood adjustment is probably at fault. The set screw on either end of the hood release cable (the long one below the hood lip) can be adjusted to release where you want. I like to put a little "preload" on these as it shortens the pull required to release the hood. When you have adjusted the release mech. to your satisfaction, check the hood release cable(the short one under the dash). You may want to remove both cables to polish with #400 sandpaper then grease, as this will greatly reduce the force needed to operate the system. When you finish adjusting , the last thing to do is bend the tail of the short cable at a 45 or 90 degree angle. This is your "safety" in case the set screw loosens. There is no emergency open for the hood. If the cable breaks you jack up the car and try to release with a broom handle. So sand, grease and adjust to reduce the wear and tear. If you have questions, email me off line. Bill

    Comment

    • Bill W.
      Very Frequent User
      • November 1, 1977
      • 402

      #3
      Re: 66 Hood Latching

      Mornin' Mario,

      Start by inspecting the male portion of the hood latchs, these have a tendency to wear away on the edge. If this "edge",(or the coresponding lip that it mates with) is worn, replace it. If these parts check out fine then hood adjustment is probably at fault. The set screw on either end of the hood release cable (the long one below the hood lip) can be adjusted to release where you want. I like to put a little "preload" on these as it shortens the pull required to release the hood. When you have adjusted the release mech. to your satisfaction, check the hood release cable(the short one under the dash). You may want to remove both cables to polish with #400 sandpaper then grease, as this will greatly reduce the force needed to operate the system. When you finish adjusting , the last thing to do is bend the tail of the short cable at a 45 or 90 degree angle. This is your "safety" in case the set screw loosens. There is no emergency open for the hood. If the cable breaks you jack up the car and try to release with a broom handle. So sand, grease and adjust to reduce the wear and tear. If you have questions, email me off line. Bill

      Comment

      • Jack H.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • April 1, 1990
        • 9906

        #4
        Re: 66 Hood Latching

        Bill's advice is GOOD! On the issue of getting latches into position where they're so far off they you can't get the hood to open even with the latches in full/forced release mode, it CAN HAPPEN.

        Did on my '71 Shark (my screw up) and it took a 2-man 4.5 hour effort of coming up from below with various tools to un-do the bolts holding the release to the hood to remedy. NOT FUN.

        Advice: When you've checked the items Bill mentioned, MAKE SURE the catch/latch mechanism(s) are properly centered and mounting bolts are tightened down nicely BEFORE you shut the hood. A trick here is to cover the catch with aluminum foil, place a folded towel on the air cleaner for safety (prevent closing) and LIGHTLY set down hood.

        Inspect the marks in the foil for center and iterate adjustments until both RH & LH sides are on the money....

        Comment

        • Jack H.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • April 1, 1990
          • 9906

          #5
          Re: 66 Hood Latching

          Bill's advice is GOOD! On the issue of getting latches into position where they're so far off they you can't get the hood to open even with the latches in full/forced release mode, it CAN HAPPEN.

          Did on my '71 Shark (my screw up) and it took a 2-man 4.5 hour effort of coming up from below with various tools to un-do the bolts holding the release to the hood to remedy. NOT FUN.

          Advice: When you've checked the items Bill mentioned, MAKE SURE the catch/latch mechanism(s) are properly centered and mounting bolts are tightened down nicely BEFORE you shut the hood. A trick here is to cover the catch with aluminum foil, place a folded towel on the air cleaner for safety (prevent closing) and LIGHTLY set down hood.

          Inspect the marks in the foil for center and iterate adjustments until both RH & LH sides are on the money....

          Comment

          • Wayne M.
            Expired
            • March 1, 1980
            • 6414

            #6
            Re: 66 Hood Latch (pops open)

            Jack --- Both you and Bill W. offer good pointers to Mario, but is there not another variable here that may be causing his unwanted pop-open, in addition to cable slack/preload and centering of the male latch. What role does the adjustable screw/bumper in the firewall-mounted catch assembly play ? I know that we screw the male latch in or out to obtain flush hood-to-body alignment, but where then should the bumpers be set ? Should there be a (say) 1/8th inch depress allowance beyond the flush ? The AIM doesn't specify this adjustment. I know that when I adjust them so they contact the hood just as the hood clicks into the latch, this is sometimes too tight, and one or the other side latch fails to open (easily). How do you set these bumpers ?

            P.S. I'll bet Mario has a convertible, as these bodies flex more; hence more of a tendancy for the hood to pop open while driving.

            Comment

            • Wayne M.
              Expired
              • March 1, 1980
              • 6414

              #7
              Re: 66 Hood Latch (pops open)

              Jack --- Both you and Bill W. offer good pointers to Mario, but is there not another variable here that may be causing his unwanted pop-open, in addition to cable slack/preload and centering of the male latch. What role does the adjustable screw/bumper in the firewall-mounted catch assembly play ? I know that we screw the male latch in or out to obtain flush hood-to-body alignment, but where then should the bumpers be set ? Should there be a (say) 1/8th inch depress allowance beyond the flush ? The AIM doesn't specify this adjustment. I know that when I adjust them so they contact the hood just as the hood clicks into the latch, this is sometimes too tight, and one or the other side latch fails to open (easily). How do you set these bumpers ?

              P.S. I'll bet Mario has a convertible, as these bodies flex more; hence more of a tendancy for the hood to pop open while driving.

              Comment

              • Jack H.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • April 1, 1990
                • 9906

                #8
                Re: 66 Hood Latch (pops open)

                Point well taken and constructive! But, my experience is the steel interface of hood latch/catch/spring wins in a battle with the rubber support bracket. If hood passes the 6-inch drop/latch test, it tain't the rubber supports that're causing 'er to pop open in my book -- it's the adjustment and wear silhouette of the latch/catch system....

                Comment

                • Jack H.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • April 1, 1990
                  • 9906

                  #9
                  Re: 66 Hood Latch (pops open)

                  Point well taken and constructive! But, my experience is the steel interface of hood latch/catch/spring wins in a battle with the rubber support bracket. If hood passes the 6-inch drop/latch test, it tain't the rubber supports that're causing 'er to pop open in my book -- it's the adjustment and wear silhouette of the latch/catch system....

                  Comment

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