C2 427/425

[Bob #11354]

I R&R the cluster, screwed the speedo cable back and snugged w/ a pliers. The first 35-40 mph, the speedo is 8-10 mph fast, the car catches up and is OK the rest of the way. When I come to a stop, it's still 6-10 mph or so, but usually when I pull slowly into my garage, it's at zero. I did not lube or change cable when the dash was out. I did install the speedo/tach gromet in the firewall; it not have one before. I called Autointruments and he said he callibrated OK. I even snugged it a bit more and made SURE the cable is straight. It starts right away, as the needle kind of jumps as the car starts moving, then stays fast... Any answers or ideas?
Also, the stilt for spark plug wires on pass. side has a 3 then 1 look. Should the holder that is further out be toward firewall or front of car?
Also, the valve cover hold downs under the bolts: should they be orange or cad, like the bolts?
Please let me know your thoughts and ideas...-Bob

[Mike M.]

Re: C2 427/425

remove the speedo cable from its housing, clean(ether or lacquer thinner) then lubricate it (sparingly) with 3M white grease(lithium based). you really don't have to tighten the cable to cluster knurled nut any tighter than finger tight.Restate the plyug wire question as i'm having trouble understanding the question. The valve cover plates are engine orange. good luck, mike

[Mike M.]

Re: C2 427/425

remove the speedo cable from its housing, clean(ether or lacquer thinner) then lubricate it (sparingly) with 3M white grease(lithium based). you really don't have to tighten the cable to cluster knurled nut any tighter than finger tight.Restate the plyug wire question as i'm having trouble understanding the question. The valve cover plates are engine orange. good luck, mike

[G B.]

White lithium grease....ewwwwww!

I've had to scrape it off too many old car parts in the past. I now wouldn't use white lithium grease to lube a screen door, let alone a Corvette. That crap sets up like cement over time. It belongs in that special section of hell with bias ply tires, tar top batteries, DOT 3 brake fluid, and Dexcool antifreeze.

Suspension grease stays soft forever. The new synthetics work fine, but you may not like the colors. You never know who might remove your speedometer cable in the future and criticize you for using the "wrong" color grease.

[G B.]

White lithium grease....ewwwwww!

I've had to scrape it off too many old car parts in the past. I now wouldn't use white lithium grease to lube a screen door, let alone a Corvette. That crap sets up like cement over time. It belongs in that special section of hell with bias ply tires, tar top batteries, DOT 3 brake fluid, and Dexcool antifreeze.

Suspension grease stays soft forever. The new synthetics work fine, but you may not like the colors. You never know who might remove your speedometer cable in the future and criticize you for using the "wrong" color grease.

[Harry Sadlock]

Re: White lithium grease....ewwwwww!

In a post from last year a member suggested motorcycle chain oil. I went off to the local Harley shop and obtained a small amount that comes packages in what looks like a syringe. After cleaning up the caked on grease I applied a very small amount and it works great. I've even used it on my vent cables and they function like new again. The factory grease lasted 41 years, I hope this solution lasts just as long.

Harry

38513

[Harry Sadlock]

Re: White lithium grease....ewwwwww!

In a post from last year a member suggested motorcycle chain oil. I went off to the local Harley shop and obtained a small amount that comes packages in what looks like a syringe. After cleaning up the caked on grease I applied a very small amount and it works great. I've even used it on my vent cables and they function like new again. The factory grease lasted 41 years, I hope this solution lasts just as long.

Harry

38513

[Terry F.]

Re: C2 427/425

Bob, I like the motor cycle cable grease/oil idea. But, I suspect if you clean the cable and coat the surface with a oil of some type it will be fine. I wouldn't use grease because it might get stiff over time and get stiff in cold weather. I also don't recall seeing grease used on them when I took them apart.
Sorry if this contradicts the other opinions out there. I recall finding a light coat of sticky oil.

Make sure your distributor is in correct alignment and not causing a major bend in the cable. Make sure the cable has priority when routed through the fire wall and under the instruments.

Things to remember about cables and plastic rolers (window tracts, etc). If the parts are plastic (window rolers and vent guides) don't use petroleum based products to lubricate them. It may fix the problem temporarily but eventually it will rot the plastic. It will also make the plastic sticky (vent cables). When working with plastics use lithium grease or silicone (spray or grease) type products. They work remarkably well and stay lubed. Also, petroleum grease tends to get stiff in cold weather where as lithium and silicone tend not to. Just my opinion.

Lithium grease will collect dirt over time and cause it to cake and get hard. But, the same will happen to petrolium grease also.

Your speedo cable has a steel cable wrapped by a steel housing. In that application you will typically find a petroleum type product used in factory applications. Maybe it was a cost thing. There are speedometer rebuild people out there, they may have a better opinion. Regards, Terry

[Terry F.]

Re: C2 427/425

Bob, I like the motor cycle cable grease/oil idea. But, I suspect if you clean the cable and coat the surface with a oil of some type it will be fine. I wouldn't use grease because it might get stiff over time and get stiff in cold weather. I also don't recall seeing grease used on them when I took them apart.
Sorry if this contradicts the other opinions out there. I recall finding a light coat of sticky oil.

Make sure your distributor is in correct alignment and not causing a major bend in the cable. Make sure the cable has priority when routed through the fire wall and under the instruments.

Things to remember about cables and plastic rolers (window tracts, etc). If the parts are plastic (window rolers and vent guides) don't use petroleum based products to lubricate them. It may fix the problem temporarily but eventually it will rot the plastic. It will also make the plastic sticky (vent cables). When working with plastics use lithium grease or silicone (spray or grease) type products. They work remarkably well and stay lubed. Also, petroleum grease tends to get stiff in cold weather where as lithium and silicone tend not to. Just my opinion.

Lithium grease will collect dirt over time and cause it to cake and get hard. But, the same will happen to petrolium grease also.

Your speedo cable has a steel cable wrapped by a steel housing. In that application you will typically find a petroleum type product used in factory applications. Maybe it was a cost thing. There are speedometer rebuild people out there, they may have a better opinion. Regards, Terry

[Bill Stephenson]

Re: C2 427/425

------No matter what method of lubing you use, do not over-tighten. As Mike stated you have the cable ends too tight............Bill S

[Bill Stephenson]

Re: C2 427/425

------No matter what method of lubing you use, do not over-tighten. As Mike stated you have the cable ends too tight............Bill S

[Bob #11354]

Re: C2 427/425

Mike,
One the pass. side the spark plug wires comes out of the shielding, then right away on the valve cover, a black "bracket" for the plug wires slides into a stand. The 4 wires pinch down into this bracket. Three "pinches" are close together, one is about 1" further out. The question being, does the one that sticks out go closer to the fire wall or front of car? Hope this clears that up.

[Bob #11354]

Re: C2 427/425

Mike,
One the pass. side the spark plug wires comes out of the shielding, then right away on the valve cover, a black "bracket" for the plug wires slides into a stand. The 4 wires pinch down into this bracket. Three "pinches" are close together, one is about 1" further out. The question being, does the one that sticks out go closer to the fire wall or front of car? Hope this clears that up.

[Bob #11354]

Re: C2 427/425

Gents,
Looks like I need to take the cable at least part way out, clean and lube it.
What's the best technique at getting to the cable end, I presume by long handle off center pliers?! I'll loosen the end first. I did check (I'll do it again) the path of the cable. It looked good. As usual, it'll be easier geting the cable off, then on. Any suggestions for getting the cable started back on.
Thank you, all for the responses. -Bob

[Bob #11354]

Re: C2 427/425

Gents,
Looks like I need to take the cable at least part way out, clean and lube it.
What's the best technique at getting to the cable end, I presume by long handle off center pliers?! I'll loosen the end first. I did check (I'll do it again) the path of the cable. It looked good. As usual, it'll be easier geting the cable off, then on. Any suggestions for getting the cable started back on.
Thank you, all for the responses. -Bob