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I'm pretty good at detecting an "unhit" body. Bonding strips, bonding adhesive material, panel fit, color and texture of the backside of the fiberglass, and usually the best key for me, how the front grill fits onto the upper and lower attachment points in the center. Anyone have any other tips for determining an unhit, unrepaired body I might use? I'm looking at a car now I'm getting ready to make an offer on, and one of the biggest points of interest on the car for me is what appears to be the unhit body.
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Re: '66 UNHIT BODY CLUES
It can be difficult to tell if the body is actually unhit. My car had all original panels and looked unhit unitl I had it painted. Once stripped there was evidence of repairs at the front of the car. The repairs were made using donor parts from another mid year. From underneath I never saw the damage. -
Re: '66 UNHIT BODY CLUES
It can be difficult to tell if the body is actually unhit. My car had all original panels and looked unhit unitl I had it painted. Once stripped there was evidence of repairs at the front of the car. The repairs were made using donor parts from another mid year. From underneath I never saw the damage.Comment
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Re: '66 UNHIT BODY CLUES
One of the things we have been dicussing in the past week is the cut out on the front valence above the RH bumper bracket. It is actually cast in and not cut out. There is a pic posted in last weeks thread - with a close up of the parting line. Replacement panels don't have the cut out and to duplicate the notch by cutting leaves no parting line.Comment
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Re: '66 UNHIT BODY CLUES
One of the things we have been dicussing in the past week is the cut out on the front valence above the RH bumper bracket. It is actually cast in and not cut out. There is a pic posted in last weeks thread - with a close up of the parting line. Replacement panels don't have the cut out and to duplicate the notch by cutting leaves no parting line.Comment
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