C3 Clock Question

[Christopher J. Bunsey]

Should I have my clock rebuilt to original, or go quartz? Also any reccomendations on who to do the work?

Thanks,

Chris

[William C.]

Re: C3 Clock Question

Quartz is easily dectable if you are going to have the car judged. If you want a quartz, but one outright and keep the original as a hedge so you can have it rebuilt in the event you or a future owner might need a "real" clock.

[Jim T.]

Re: C3 Clock Question

When I had my 70's clock converted to quartz at a event about 20 years ago, I had to ask the vender for my old clock.

[Terry F.]

Re: C3 Clock Question

My original clock stopped ticking probably years ago. I carefully removed the back of it and washed it out with WD40 then blew it out with compressed air. I cleaned the contacts with a file. I then applied 12 volts to it with a battery charger and away it went. They have a wonderful little winding mechanism that works off of a solinoid. When the points make contact the solinoid engages and flings a weighted arm (part of the points contact mechanism) attached to the spring. As the spring winds down, it eventually makes contact and starts the process over again. They are so simple it's not funny. I suspect most could be repair by just cleaning. They go bad because they run constantly even when the car is turned off (as I recall). But, if they get stuck in the points open position they esentially go to sleep untill someone comes along and frees them up. Terry

[Jack H.]

IF....

worn points that you've squeezed a few more 'ticks' out of by filing happen to weld together, you might wish you'd NOT have 'repaired' the tick tock! When points are welded together, the solenoid circuit is closed and it's a horse race as to what's going to go south:

(1) Solenoid windings in the clock intended for intermittent operation melt down (possibly causing a fire).

(2) Power supply wire in the dash harness melts (another potential fire).

(3) Later cars with a protective fuse for the clock circuit have the fuse blow and self-protect in an orderly fashion.

Contrary to popular belief, what's 'death' to an electro-mechanical clock, is long periods of disuse where mechanism lubricant can pool/puddle and harden. For cars with a real McCoy electro-mechanical clock, I strongly recommend storing them with a battery cut-off switch and power to the clock shut down.

While this flies backwards from what I said (disuse is the enemy), the rationale is pretty simple... In the rare event the clock's solenoid winding points weld shut, would you rather have it happen when you're in attendance or with the car unattended in storage?

[Jack H.]

Re: C3 Clock Question

Choice of mechanism depends on your objectives. If you intend to seriously show the car, the use of a quartz mechanism will cost you:

(1) Expect to lose points during Flight Judging in the Operations Check
(2) Expect to fail a Performance Verification test automatically

However, if you want a clock that'll keep time accurately, pass scrutiny under a Founders Operation Check, last a LONG time, and eliminate the REMOTE possibility of an electrical fire due to clock winding points welding closed then I'd say you should go with a quartz mechanism.

As far as who to hire to do the rebuild, the job is VERY simple (compared to C2 or worse yet C1) and can expect the R&R (removal and re-installation) to be the lion's share of the task. Most replacement mechanisms come with clear rebuild instructions packed in the box.

About the only way I'd suggest farming the job out, is IF you're very timid about using hand tools OR if your clock face is faded/worn and needs to be re-silkscreened to complete the clock restoration...

[Terry F.]

Re: IF....

I agree. The clock is a sealed unit but moisture gets into it as well and corrosion and sticky oil, etc cause it to stick. I have only repair two of them. If the points have stuck closed something should smoke eventually. The clock solinoid windings are pretty small gauge compared to the wires feeding power to the clock, hopefully they would go first. Thanks, Terry

[Terry F.]

I wonder what amp fuse would hold the clock?

I think I will put a small fuse inline with the clock mechanism. It would be simple to do and easily changed back to original. Any idea what amp fuse should hold it or should one just do a trial and error to see what holds it and go with the lowest amp fuse that works? Terry

[Gerard Q.]

Re: C3 Clock Question

To convert to quartz or original movement none better to do the job than Jerry @ The Clock Works http://www.clockwks.com

[Dave F.]

Re: I wonder what amp fuse would hold the clock?

Terry,

Looking at the wiring diagram, that 20 ga. wire that feeds the clock, comes off the 16 ga. wire feeding the cigarette lighter. For a 20 ga. I'm thinking something in the 1 to 2 amp range ??? Not real sure though as I have never done what you are considering.

[Donald L.]

Re: I wonder what amp fuse would hold the clock?

I used a 1 amp in my C-1.

[Mike Baker]

Re: I wonder what amp fuse would hold the clock?

Terry,

I used a 1 amp in my '68.

[John Liner]

Re: C3 Clock Question/Thanks

Thanks Jerry. Great site, I have a 71 clock in need of repair. I was considering the quartz movement but would rather have NOS movement. One more reason to belong to NCRS and frequent this board.

[Chas Henderson #28127]

Re: C3 Clock is on and off

My clock in my 71 works if you pull on the setting knob and then let go. It will some times run for a few minutes or a few seconds. It used to run all summer a few years ago, and now hardly at all. I did buy a quartz, but I have not put it in yet. I guess I could try cleaning it again, but I hate the thought of pulling the panel out again, if it fails, again.

Chasman

[Terry F.]

Anyone interested?

I am surprised that others have done this. I am thinking of just making a little inline fuse with some original connectors. I should have a bunch made and sell them to people.

Anyone intested, let me know. I will consider making a bunch with original connectors and a little fuse pod to go between the terminal of the clock and the end of the wire lead that feeds the clock.

All for now, Terry