I recently replaced center carb on 67 427/435 and since then have been like the little Dutch Boy trying to keep up with all of the gas fitting leaks. Also replaced several sections of line with Paragon parts. Gas leakes between Fuel inlet fitting and carb and where line goes into inlet fitting. Very difficult to tighten fuel inlet fitting especially on rear carb. Help! Thanks
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my advice when installing new lines
is to put a spare carb float bowl fitting in a bench vise and then take the new line and tighten it firmly in the fitting in the vise to form a good flare on the new gas line. then reinstall the line on the engine -
Re: C2Tri Power Leak
A friend years ago had a '69 L71 that leaked nearly everytime he took it out. I ended up wrapping each fitting with only 1-1/2 to 2 turns of Teflon tape and just over a turn on the line itself under the fitting. the Teflon tape allowed me to tighten them more (no seizing of threads going in) and formed a seal both in the threads and between the line and the fitting.
Be sure to trim it carefully because you don't want any loose pieces that get into the fuel flow and stick in the carb.
As far as I know, they were still in place when he sold it a few years later.Comment
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you can also coat the threads with never seize
to allow you to put more torque on the fittingsComment
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Re: C2Tri Power Leak
David,
I went through the same thing on my '67 tri-power steel gas lines. I ended up going through two sets. Clem is right, you have to already have a good shaped flare on the lines before installing them. I've used his suggestion on other fuel lines as well, making sure the flare was just right before actually installing it on the carb(s). Tightening them in place on the carbs and blocks is very difficult. Typically, you'll end up tightening the fittings to the point of disstorting them trying to stop the leak. I know for sure, this can't be the same steel used in actual production in '67, because there is no way the workers on the assembly line could have installed them as quickly as I'm sure they did, and not had as many leaks as you(and I) had.Comment
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Re: C2Tri Power Leak
I really thought I was very good at installing lines on BB's/SB's with dual lines and tri-power carbs until I recently replaces my Tri-Power lines with replacements that I purchased from a C2 parts house, just for pure esthetics. I spent hours tightening each block and line until there was no visible drips and leaks and was satisfied with the installation.
Within weeks I developed a drip which went away once the engine was at operating temperature, My mistake... the next trip out I smelled gas at a traffic light, turned the car around and headed home, once home I opened the hood and the car bursted into flames, lucky I had a fire extinguisher near by and the only damage was the fire extinguisher foam....hours and hours of detailing.......
I reinstalled the original lines (beat-up) and blocks and with no leaks.
Question:
Is the material on the reproduction line different then the originals?
What vendor has the best blocks and lines?
Regards.Comment
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NEVER,NEVER use stainless steel lines
because the flare is so hard it will never conform to the seat in the fittings. there are copper washers that have the same shape as the flares on the lines and in the fittings and these will give a softer sealing surface that seals better.i have bought any for 20 years but i bet they are still available but have used them before and they will seal the leak.Comment
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stainless brake lines also a huge PIA! *NM*
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Re: NEVER,NEVER use stainless steel lines
David,
I own a 67 427/435 with Long Island Corvette vender parts. I purchased the complete set with lines, Brass blocks and filters. Never had 1 leak, been on the car for 6 years. The factory never used teflon tape, and as Clem stated the Fuel Block to line Flare is critical for a perfect seal. Keep it original, as the factory built these cars. My research has never flagged a recall on Tri-Power Fuel leaks back in the 60's and 70's.
DonComment
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Re: NEVER,NEVER use stainless steel lines
When all the threads are new and the lines new, you can do without the tape, or at least should be able to go without.
But when the threads get old, they offer more resistance as you tighten them. The Teflon tape acts as a lubricant and sealant. It lets you tighted without threads seizing.
And if the lines are old and been tightened when they were not perfectly aligned, they won't seal without a lot of pressure when aligned right. And that pressure may strip out your bowl threads.Comment
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Re: NEVER,NEVER use stainless steel lines
Thanks everybody. I think I'll try new non-ss lines.Comment
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