66/67 Headlight switches.

[Richard S.]

Both switches are originals. Neither have ever worked consistantly without considerable pushing in and down several times. Now 67 switch won't bring lights up at all. Tried 66 switch on 67 and voila....lights come up. Can this switch be taken apart and cleaned? Thanks for the help.

[Larry L.]

Re: 66/67 Headlight switches.

Most switch contact failures are due to corroded contacts. Over time the contacts get pitted and have a an oxide coating.
There are a number of good contact cleaners out there for switches - you have to turn to the electronics world to find them.
Spray or soak the switch in the contact cleaner and let drip dry. When its dry hook it up and try it a few times, The contact cleaner may be harmful to paint so mask it off with mylar tape so it will not get to paint and lettering.
Do not use sand paper on contacts - they may look good but you have removed the plating. To clean contacts use unglazed paper. Make a strip, put between contacts, press contacts together - lightly, and pull paper. You may have to do this several time - like cleaning a gun barrel.

Each time you try it it gets better.

[Norm B.]

Re: 66/67 Headlight switches.

I assume you are talking about the rocker switch that opens and closes the headlight doors. There are two likely scenarios. One is that the spring clips that hold the plate with the pins on it are letting the backing plate move up with the pressure from the lever, You might be able to bend the tabs down to firm them up if you are gentle with it. The other possibility is that the points inside the switch are worn or dirty. Here is what I did on my 63 to resolve that problem;

You will see two small holes on the side of the switch. Push a pin or paper clip into these holes then pull the spring clips straight up and out. That will allow you to disassemble the switch. Inside you will find a set of points, a bakelight? rocker on a pin and not much more. You may want to try filing the points gently with a point file to clean them up but also inspect the rocker to see how badly the corners are worn. I have been unable to find a source for parts although they were available from Long Island or one of them several years ago.

One easy way to test if the switch is bad is to use 14 guage solid wire, like house wiring to jumper the three contacts on the connector with the switch diconnected. It's been a few years but if I remember correctly the centre hole was hot and the two outer holes operated the headlights up and down.

Be patient as a lot of the pieces are a little delicate. Good luck.

[Jack H.]

Re: 66/67 Headlight switches.

I'll presume you meant what you said in the original post (headlight switch vs. headlight door switch) and that we're talking about an original Delco Remy 1995131 switch assy here.

There are about three things that go 'south' on original switches....

(1) Dimmer function is erratic and/or lacks full scale operating range.

(2) Erratic operation of one or both sides of the switch. Switch has a dual gang, double pole, double throw configuration, with front lamps on one gang and rear lamps on the second gang.

(3) Switch is essentially 'dead'.

The first generally deals with the potentiameter function of the switch with resistor windings or pot wiper badly oxidized from disuse (lack of turning the dimmer function periodically) OR the pot winding is open circuit (burned winding) from prior overload.

The second generally results from internal wear based on prior use. Sometimes, opening the switch, doing a thorough cleaning and re-adjusting the contact springs in the internal pole shuttle can buy you a few more years of use...

The third is often the result of prior circuit failure(s) with the switch's internal circuit breaker being 'fried'. Sometimes cleaning the contact points associated with the circuit breaker recovers operation.

Plus, as has been mentioned, you can have oxidized contact posts running to the wiring harness connector. Here, you can sometimes recover operation by cleaning the contact posts with a wire brush and then protecting them against further oxidation with a little silicone grease.

But, if a contact post's original plating is gone altogether and you're down to base metal with LOTS of pit, you're kinda pushing on rope to try and save the switch short of cleaning the contact lines to base metal and selectively re-plating them. The latter is an approach for the pro's with home plating experience + the switch had better be old and/or rare to merit this level of 'heroics'....

Last, yes you can disassemble a switch, clean and address internal problem. BUT, the first time you do it, expect parts to go flying in different directions leaving you in a state of confusion regarding the proper sequence of re-assembly of the internal dual gang shuttle carriage assy.

However, it can be done, mon! And, with a little practice you can get good and efficient at the task.

Still, you're talking about a rather common switch ('131) that you can still find in abundance at the scrap yards if you really want a correct original in your dash vs. a fresh aftermarket functional clone. Is it worth your time/effort? If we were talking about a one year only 1958 switch ('081), a rather hard to find 1955-57 switch ('072), the story might be different...