During my restoration, I am replacing dust shields for a-arms, radiator shroud and underbody weather strips. Aftermarket staples are typically stainless steel which will receive judging points deducts. The attached photo shows new staples that I made from galvanized wire, 16 ga. I believe. Quite a process. First I set up a simple jig to help in cutting short pieces the same length. Then, off to the bench grinder to debur ends. Grasp piece between thumb and forefinger and twist lightly against grinding wheel. You end up with a nice point on each end. Then, place each piece in a pliers and center it (I used eyeball). Then I set two square wooden blocks about 3/4" apart and push pliers/wire down between blocks to start the bends evenly. Then leaving the wire in the pliers, complete the bending to right angles. Again, using eyeball method, make sure the legs are in line. If you have one leg a bit longer, go to the grinder and shorten. Then, I throw finished staples into Dr. X solution which eats away the galvanized coating. Rinse in water and blow dry. Then clean staples with wire wheel (bench grinder). Then, throw staples into vibratory tumbler with walnut shell media and let shake for half hour to hour and you're done. Nice staples that will pass the magnet test. I have not had them judged as yet but they look good and are certainly better than stainless parts. They look similar to the originals that were removed from my car.
C2 Dust Shield Staples
Collapse
X
-
Re: C2 Dust Shield Staples
I feared there might be comments like yours.One would need to greatly speed up the manufacturing process to make it cost effective. I would guess that I spent 2-3 hours to make 50 of them. Its tedious work but I think the results were worth it. Thanks for the compliment.
- Top
Comment
-
Re: C2 Dust Shield Staples
Terry nice job!
Those should last another 50 years. As you attack the A arm seals remember these were installed before engine bay black out, so seals and staple ends get painted and outside in wheel well got some undercoating, make sure the seals are thick enough (early seals were too thin, recent ones appear correct), pay attention to how these are crimped on the inside (sorry could not find picture). Different years had slightly different seal configurations. Have fun.- Top
Comment
-
Re: C2 Dust Shield Staples
And don't forget to install them before the body drop.
Seems obvious but it isn't always!- Top
Comment
-
Re: C2 Dust Shield Staples
Chris,
Mike McCagh outlined his method in previous forum posts (years ago) as did others. You can email Mike if you can't find the post. He uses a "skinny" needle nose pliers. Others have noted placing a small drill bit or similar round piece under the leg as you bend it over. Best to do some sample runs first on scrap.- Top
Comment
-
-
Re: C2 Dust Shield Staples
Make a pattern with a manila file folder or other such thick paper. Drill backwards (from the wheel side) the existing holes, then drill your rubber parts to match the pattern. See prior discussion: https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...t=inner+fender
And... See another discussion about John Hinckley making his own staples. Can't locate that one tonight.https://MichiganNCRS.org
Michigan Chapter
Tom Dingman- Top
Comment
-
Re: C2 Dust Shield Staples
As I wanted to mention above, try to hit the same holes as prior. Also, remember to remove paint (if there is any under the dust shield attaching area). I had to strip some black because my painter thought he was doing me a favor. Painted every inch underhood all black.
(The three white bumps are spots where FI air cleaner mounting holes were to be drilled, if so equipped. This is a '65 project.)https://MichiganNCRS.org
Michigan Chapter
Tom Dingman- Top
Comment
Comment