63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

[Chuck G.]

Finally have to replace the original ammeter/battery gauge in my 63. It's given up the ghost. Won't even "flick" anymore.

So, I'm in the market for a replacement.

Question:

Are there difference between the various 63 ammeters I see advertised?

I've seen NOS ones advertised.
I've seen "GM Restoration Parts" ones advertised, and
I've seen "reproduction" ones advertised.

What are the differences? Do they all look like a "factory installed" ammeter?

Seems I recall something about the gauge face mounting being different.

Any thoughts?

TIA.

Chuck

[Larry M.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Chuck:

I would take option four: Send original out for repair to a good shop. I am certain that someone can repair it.....but they may wind up replacing the internals with service replacement parts.

Aside from that, I would try for NOS, and then the latest GM Restoration Parts. I have heard that the latter is pretty close to original, but may have slight cosmetic and construction differences. I have not hear any significant issues with the GM Restoration Parts gages.

Hope that Joe Ray will respond to your question, as he has an excellent reputation and experience for gage repair and restoration. I would like to hear his take.

Larry

[Chuck G.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Hi Larry.

I know several places where I could have it rebuilt, but I'm looking for "instant gratification".

I don't want to have the car laid up for weeks upon weeks. I know I could easily remove the Ammeter and could easily drive the car without it, BUT....................................

Chuck

[Bob R.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Just my thoughts but there is nothing like the original if you have it. You say there is no rush so I would have the old part rebuilt wait until the fall and make it a winter project.

[Larry M.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Just my thoughts but there is nothing like the original if you have it. You say there is no rush so I would have the old part rebuilt wait until the fall and make it a winter project.

I agree..........or talk Joe Ray into doing an exchange for another original unit. Chuck can probably be trusted to return his original.....

Larry

[Dick W.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Razorback Joe Ray would be my choice Chuckster

[Chuck G.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

I agree..........or talk Joe Ray into doing an exchange for another original unit. Chuck can probably be trusted to return his original.....

Larry

Yeah, I think ol' JR would trust me on this one. Just maybe I'll give him a call or drop him an EMail.

Just my thoughts but there is nothing like the original if you have it. You say there is no rush so I would have the old part rebuilt wait until the fall and make it a winter project.

Now that I'm living in Florida, Bob, there are no more "winter" projects.
You can drive your cars 12 months out of the year. Actually, I've learned that the winter months are the BEST for driving down here, because it's a bit cooler.

When it gets to 95* plus, most people hibernate in the air conditioning.

Chuck

[Chuck G.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Razorback Joe Ray would be my choice Chuckster

I was over in Arkansas a few weeks ago too, Dick. Wasn't near Little Rock, but I thought of JR as we headed through the state up to Oklahoma.

Chuck

[Chuck G.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Well, I've got to eat some crow.

Went out to the garage and removed the FUEL/BATTERY gauge pod. Had it out in about 20 minutes.

BUT...I looked at the BATTERY gauge. It has a sticker on it with a part number and a date of December, 1988.

The FUEL gauge has bluish rubber stamped numbers on it.

SO, I musta replaced that BATTERY gauge at some time in the past. Honestly don't remember.

AND it's NOT the original gauge to the car, it's "what was available" in 1988.

Chuck

[Chuck G.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Contacted JR. It's on its' way to AR-Kansas.

Chuck

[Dick W.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Well, I've got to eat some crow.

Went out to the garage and removed the FUEL/BATTERY gauge pod. Had it out in about 20 minutes.

BUT...I looked at the BATTERY gauge. It has a sticker on it with a part number and a date of December, 1988.

The FUEL gauge has bluish rubber stamped numbers on it.

SO, I musta replaced that BATTERY gauge at some time in the past. Honestly don't remember.

AND it's NOT the original gauge to the car, it's "what was available" in 1988.

Chuck

Who knows, ya mighta bought that from some short, fat, ugly, balding, gray headed vendor. I know that you bought several items from me when we had the business

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

I am sure these ammeters are shunting style gauges?
This means they are in reality milliamp gauges calibrated to indicate amperes. The connections are made to different ends of the same positive wire. This means any extra resistance in the wiring causes this style of gauge to quit working. I would check all my connections before faulting the gauge. It really doesn’t take much. As an example; I actually inserted an in-line fuse into the amp meter supply legs. After that the gauge failed to work. I traced it back to the extra resistance in the poorly build fuse holder. Cleaned and greased the connections on the, brand new, fuse holder and it worked.

The connection starts on the small black connection post. This is the where the battery positive connection is made with everything but the large starter wiring. If there is any corrosion on this connection the gauge will not work. The other connection is made at the voltage regulator and should also be cleaned to perfect. Remember both side are + or positive connections and there is no ground. This is how most of the Chevrolet's are connected, in this era. I suspect the Corvette is no exception, but I could be wrong here. I usually check them using the headlights and the motor off. Any movement of the gauge however small is an indication it may be a wiring issue and not the gauge.

With some luck and a meter one could rig up a test for the gauge. The manual may also give the resistance between the two meter legs. However I didn't find anything in the manual for my 63, may not be the same one everyone else has.
Rick

[John S.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Anyone have suggestions on the 63 vintage amp gauge that fluctuates into a bit of blur at low speeds, but is fine at rpm above about 1500?
Rebuild or replace? Or?
Thanks,
John

[Chuck G.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

Who knows, ya mighta bought that from some short, fat, ugly, balding, gray headed vendor. I know that you bought several items from me when we had the business

I bought parts from a dashing, handsome young Southern gentleman back then. I believe he was from North Carolina.

Chuck

[Chuck G.]

Re: 63 Ammeter. NOS vs. GM Resto Parts vs. Reproduction

I am sure these ammeters are shunting style gauges?
This means they are in reality milliamp gauges calibrated to indicate amperes. The connections are made to different ends of the same positive wire. This means any extra resistance in the wiring causes this style of gauge to quit working. I would check all my connections before faulting the gauge. It really doesn’t take much. As an example; I actually inserted an in-line fuse into the amp meter supply legs. After that the gauge failed to work. I traced it back to the extra resistance in the poorly build fuse holder. Cleaned and greased the connections on the, brand new, fuse holder and it worked.

The connection starts on the small black connection post. This is the where the battery positive connection is made with everything but the large starter wiring. If there is any corrosion on this connection the gauge will not work. The other connection is made at the voltage regulator and should also be cleaned to perfect. Remember both side are + or positive connections and there is no ground. This is how most of the Chevrolet's are connected, in this era. I suspect the Corvette is no exception, but I could be wrong here. I usually check them using the headlights and the motor off. Any movement of the gauge however small is an indication it may be a wiring issue and not the gauge.

With some luck and a meter one could rig up a test for the gauge. The manual may also give the resistance between the two meter legs. However I didn't find anything in the manual for my 63, may not be the same one everyone else has.
Rick

I removed the alternator and voltage regulator, thinking one of those might be the problem. Took them to a local electrical shop and had them tested/run together. They were fine.

Cleaned all the connections at the regulator and alternator. Put 'em back together with dielectric grease. Also popped off both bulkhead connectors, cleaned them, and dielectric greased them too. Did the same on the back of the AMMETER gauge too.

Cleaned and "greased" the horn relay connections too. I "think" one "leg" of the AMMETER circuit goes from the big red wire on the horn relay.

Only thing I didn't do is clean/remove the connections on the + lug of the starter solenoid. I think that's where the other "leg" of the circuit is. So, I think my wiring is OK.

I'll find out for sure when I get my gauge back and reinstalled.

Chuck