Paint Questions for a 1963

[Jerry Coia]

I have just completed a body off restoration on my roadster and I'm ready for paint. The car is originally Daytona Blue (metallic) and will be kept that way. I intend to drive the car and not make it a trailer queen.

I am looking for anyone's input on the following:

1. What kind of paint do I use?

2. How many coats are necessary?

3. What brand is the best?

4. What type of clear coat?

5. How many coats do I need?

I know the body shop that I choose will have it's own opinion, but for something like this, I would like as much information as possible before I go.

Any and all feedback would be appreciated.

[Jeff Bratton]

Re: Paint Questions for a 1963

In owning a body shop I have had very good luck with Standox, use a high solids urethane clear, two coats, or three if your going to color sand & buff. Spies Hecker is also very good. This is for a daily driver, not for ncrs paint standard. just be sure your prep work is right, that is the key for a long lasting paint job. Do not paint over old paint.

[Bill W.]

Re: Paint Questions for a 1963

Dupont will match the original paint in lacquer or bc/cc urathanes . do not mix brands.you must use the same brand meterals all the way through. Bill

[G B.]

Color accuracy

If you really want your car to be painted with an accurate shade of GM 1963-4 Daytona blue, you will have to find an example of original paint and copy it. The "stock" Dupont and PPG formulas are too blue and use metallic particles that are far too large. The original color is very dark, and you have to look closely in good light to see the metallic in it.

Both DuPont and PPG stores (and probably others) have color matching cameras with computer programs. I use the PPG system. I had the store match the original Daytona blue on a hardtop that had seen very little sun. I still have the base coat urethane formula somewhere around here. The color came out dead nuts on this car.