I need to check the VIN on the frame to retag what is now listed as 58 but I believe should be a 60. The body is ready to be lifted. Would the weight of the body permit a group of guys to hold it up for a few minutes while I check the number? Is there another way to create the space and view the VIN on the frame without a total lift...like using one or more jacks strategically placed...as an alternative? Thanks.
C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
Collapse
X
-
Tags: None
- Top
-
Re: C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
Richard,
If you have the body completely ready to lift, You can lift the drivers side up and place a couple of short 2x4's on the frame and let the body rest on them. This will give you room to locate and see the VIN on the frame just forward of rhe drivers seat. There may be two vin's numbers stamped and with a light and wire bushing will be readable.- Top
-
Re: C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
Richard, anxious to hear what you find out! On my 58 it has two stampings. Find the center locating hole on the outside left hand frame rail and look directly above it. I have one number stamped about 1/4 inch inboard (stamped parallel to frame rail) on top at this point. I have another identical stamping located about 4 inches forward from this. Hope this helps. Also, does yours have a removalble transmission fiberglass tunnel---have you checked the cowl reinforcements--does trunk lid have trunk iron mounting nipples on underside--what does your trunk area look like right above your rear body mounts(is the rear floor cut out to aceess bumper brackets or is floor solid with bracket holes on vertical rear lower walls--if 58 frame there will be no rear stabilizer brackets? bill- Top
Comment
-
Re: C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
This seems to be a good approach. Should I have a concern that by lifting one side I might be putting too much pressure on the other side and cause damage to it? Thanks.- Top
Comment
-
Re: C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
Bill: I know the frame is not a 58 as it has traction bars and the stabilizer bar at the back, which was characteristic of the 60. Also, per Noland Adams, the stabilizer bar by the engine mounts is straight in the middle (which occurred in 60)rather than having two bends. There is no removable transmission mount (one piece body) and the trunk lid has no nipples. I know the body is a 60 based on many factors (doors, guages, metal, etc). It had been removed from the frame and replaced. My hope is that it is truly a 60 frame and not a 61 or 62 frame. I checked Noland Adams to see if there were any differences between the 60 and 61/62 frames and I did not find any, other that different size mounting bolts for the 61...but the original bolts are long gone. How this car ever got a 58 VIN I will never know. But if I can verify the VIN on the frame as a 60, it can be legally changed and everything should fall into place.- Top
Comment
-
Re: C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
The VIN tag on the body is a 58 but not correct. Need to check the frame VIN to authenticate acutal year. I don't believe there is enough clearance to see VIN on frame without lifting it, but I will check again. Thanks.- Top
Comment
-
Re: C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
Richard, sounds like you are close to cracking the case at this point. Might be a lot better if it really is a 60. By the way, if your 58 vin is #7430 it belongs to me! Just joking but it would be great. Best of luck on your many, many, many, many hours of future work and fun.- Top
Comment
-
Re: C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
Richard--
At the very rear of the frame, on a 61-62, the bumper braces mount to the frame with long bolts that actually go all the way through the frame rails. 60 bumper braces, as you already know, mount differently. the 58-60 frame also has an extra pad on it for the rear bumperette braces to bolt to the frame--61-62 does not. Hope that helps some.
Mike Ernst- Top
Comment
-
Re: C1 VIN on Frame/Body Lift?
Richard,
While napping under my 57 yesterday I remembered your question. Having never checked the frame number I decided to look for it. Following the guideline of "a few inches in front of the drivers seat", I wedged the fiberglass up from the frame enough to make room for my fingers and a "scratchie" pad. After scrubbing briskly for a minute I rubbed the frame with my fingers to remove some of the dust. Then, using a mirror and droplight, I could read (with some difficulty because it was backward) the correct serial number for my car.
The number was stamped clearly, approximately parallel to the outside of the frame and maybe 1/2 inch in from the side.
So, I demonstrated to my satisfaction that it's not necessary to remove the body to read the frame number.
Verle- Top
Comment
Comment