'67 Rear Spring Replacement

[Kent K.]

Since receiving a Duntov Award in '94, the original rear spring in my '67 has succumbed to prolonged forces resulting with zero arch. I have a new Eaton spring, painted it and am ready to replace the original. I have misplaced my AIM and could use some help. Before starting, are there any procedures requiring extra careful attention on which anyone experienced could provide advice?

Many thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to all.

Kent Member #6201

[William C.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Hi Kent, use the weight of the car to load the spring while unbolting the link to the suspension arms, and also while loosening the bolts on the differential cover support (loosen these, do not remove) then raise the car to take the weight off the spring, finish unbolting the bracket and make sure you have a good hold of the spring or get out of the way when it comes off. Reverse steps to reinstall, do not torque the center bracket to (anywhere near) full torque until the spring is supporting the full weight of the car.

[Kent K.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Thanks for the tip Bill. As I remember, you cautioned me about the rear spring being in baaaaad shape while it was on the lift last year. Time to take action, eh? Have a wonderful Christmas.
Kent

[Ray C.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Hi! Bill

I am also in the process of re-installing my rear spring on my 65. Is there any tricks to compressing the rear leaf spring until the bolts, cushions, and washers can be installed. I am in the process of a body-off, so the only weight will be the componets that make up the rear suspension.

Thanks for any help
Ray




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[Stephen L.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Ray, I recently installed my rear spring with the body off. What you need to compress the spring is a lot of ballast or.... Have someone sit on the frame to keep the frame on the jack stands for stability..... then using a 2x4x8ft on edge carefully insert the 2x4 in the frame members from the rear and have a "hefty" person hold the frame down. Now using a floor jack carefully jack up the spring and insert the bolts etc. Be careful when doing this as a slip could hurt someone.....................you are jacking against the person holding the 2x4

[William C.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

With the body off, I looped a chain around the spring and used a hydraulic "bottle" jack on top of the frame to pull the spring into place. All the previously mentioned cautions about the caution required and the amount of energy in a compressed spring still apply

[Ray C.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Thanks Jack!

Try it tomorrow.

Ray

[Kent K.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Is it possible to replace the rear spring without first removing the mufflers and exaust pipes? I have the spring links and center plate-to-differential bolts loosened. Also, it looks like the differential plate bolts mat need replacements. Are these available and from whom?
Thanks,
Kent #6201

[Donald O.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Kent,

Not only is it possibe, but that is exzctly how I did to my 67. The entire job took about 3 hours using the Service Manual as a study guide. It tells how to remove, how to install and what tools to use. A relative piece of cake.

Don

[Kent K.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Thanks Don. I'll probably remove the exhaust pipes and mufflers just to allow more room installing the rear spring. Now, if I could just get my Sears 2-ton hydraulic floor jack to lift past about 30 degrees (it's supposd to lift to about 85 degrees) ... :-(
Kent

[Craig S.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Kent - usually this means you are low on jack oil, you may want to check....Craig

[Kent K.]

Re: '67 Rear Spring Replacement

Thanks Craig. According to the instructions on the jack oil I just purchased, I should have been changing it more frequently. The jack has a '88 date ... must be when it was bought? Maybe this weekend.
Thanks again. Merry Christmas to all.
Kent #6201