Testing gauges for 60

[Larry P.]

I want to test my gauges before final installation.
Oil and temp should be easy enough, Is there a proper, safe way to test the gas and
amp gauges. Wiring is not in yet. I have wired enough to start engine only.
Thanks, Larry

[Al C.]

Re: Testing gauges for 60

Larry -
The amp gauge is a directpreading (internal shunt) amp-meter, so there is no substitute for high current in testing it.
The fuel gauge responds to the resistance of the sender - E at 0 ohms, F at about 80 ohms or so. You could test it by connecting a variable resistor (potentiometer - e.g., from Radio Shack) or by using the sender if it's out of the tank.
Happy holidays!
... Al '58 #378 245hp NCRS SACC

[John H.]

Re: Testing gauges for 60

Go to Radio Shack and get (they may have to order) a 0-100 ohm variable potentiometer (volume control, if you will); mine has "B100(ohm symbol)" on the back, about five bucks. It has three taps on it - solder a wire between the center tap and either one of the outer taps so you have two separate connection points. Insert this in series in the sender wire side of the temp gauge and you can use it to determine the resistance value required to calibrate the temp gauge reading to actual I.R. gun-observed temperature at the thermostat housing (yes, I know the gauge reading becomes non-linear when resistance is added to the circuit). You can also use it to verify correct fuel gauge operation on a C1 by disconnecting the (tan) sender wire from the gauge and connecting the pot with jumper wires between that terminal on the gauge and a known good ground; at the low end (0 ohms) the gauge should read empty, and near the high end (90 ohms) the gauge should read full; if you have a fuel gauge problem, this is a quick way to confirm it's not in the gauge.