Tie Your Mother Down

[Gary C.]

Can someone tell me the optimal tie down attachment points for securing my mid year in a enclosed trailer?

Thanks

Gary

[Terry M.]

Re: Tie Your Mother Down *TL*

Gary,
The optimal tie down points for C2 and C3 (and maybe all of them) were rectangular holes punched in the frame by the - surprise - manufacturer to tie down the car during transport. You will need a T-shaped tie-down hook that is sold by many trailer suppliers - I know Northern Hydraulics has them.
On my 1970 the holes are inboard of the front springs (and a little to the rear of the spring centerline) in the front. At the rear they are in the crossmember in front of the wheels and, unlike the front, have edges that turn down.
The tie-down hook goes in the hole and turns 90 degrees to lock it in. Then use good strength (10K lbs) tie down straps.
I am trying to get some pictures of the T-shaped tie-down hooks in place on a frame for a future Restorer story. Hard to do in my part of the country this time of year.
Terry

[Bill W.]

Re: Tie Your Mother Down

Terry I have a few of the T shapped chain links. body shops use them all the time. I would NOT use them in the frame to transport a car. 1 Im not to sure all trailer floors are as strong or ridged as the trains or trucks used to deliver the cars when new. 2 they used turn buckles & chain binders not straps .3 It is still not uncommon to have frames twisted from being tied to tight on the trucks & trains .4 they do come loose (we had one last month).I tie mine on the lower control arm (a frame) and on the rear axle or outer axle shaft.I think its better for the car to move on its shocks. Bill

[Terry M.]

Re: Tie Your Mother Down *TL*

Bill,
I have used the engineered holes the last ten or so years and I much prefer them to the control arm/rear axle which I used previously.
1) I agree trailer floors may not be as strong as those on transport vehicles, but regardless of where the attachment point is on the car, it is still tied off to the trailer floor. Most of us don't transport the vehicles at the extreme angles I sometimes see on the transporters, nor do we stop and start as severely as a train might.
2) I agree they use chains and heavier ratchets than are typically available in trailers - I don't see what that has to do with the attachment point on the vehicle. One certainly doesn't have to take the travel out of the suspension to use the designed tie down points, nor should one attempt to do that.
3) I am sure there is damage to cars from them. I know of one Bowtie 1970 that has one of the front holes pulled through from the factory transport in all probability. That is, I believe, due to the point you make in item number 2. The full time transporters do have the equipment to exceed the strength of the material the vehicle is made of. One should also not ignore the possibility that the driver may attempt to unload the car without removing all the tie-downs.
4) I am sure a car could come loose in a trailer as well, regardless of where the tie-downs are attached to the car. One should check the load at each reasonable opportunity - potty stops, fuel stops, food stops and if the road is rough more often - regardless of how the vehicle is tied down.
I was never satisfied with the rear tie-down to the axle. The straps always worked loose on me when I used that method. I did resort to wrapping the padded strap around the lower shock mount as a means of stabilizing the rear tie down point, but I didn't like the abrasion to the shock that resulted from the rubbing of the strap.
I am not stating the only way to tie down the car is with the engineered holes, but I have found that it works for me. I have never had the car move, nor the straps loosen using them. On the other hand, I do not trailer my car as far or as often as some others, so I may not be the best test subject. I do find it hard to understand why we so universally ignore the devices the engineers designed into the car.
Terry

[Patrick H.]

Re: Tie Your Mother Down

Personally, I like the tie downs that wrap/strap over your tires. The car is free to move on its suspension, and the frame and/or suspension aren't damaged or scratched at all.

Just my $0.02

Patrick

[Jack H.]

Agree With Pat--I prefer Tire Nets.... *NM*

[John M.]

Me too on the tire nets! *NM*

[Harmon C.]

Re: Me too on the tire nets!

I also use the nets and like to load up without getting under the Corvette.. Make sure the D rings and rollers are in the right location for your corvette.

[Terry M.]

Re: tire nets! *TL*

Sounds like the tire nets will work too. I just have no expereince with them.
Terry

[Craig S.]

Re: tire nets!

When I bought my 66 earlier this year and brought it home, the U-Haul car hauler had the nets, and they worked perfectly, and you can really cinch them down, and it did let the suspension function normally on bumps. I was very impressed and to me it seems like the way to go...it only had them on the front but if I had my own trailer, I think I would try for all four since the custom aspect is not an issue like it would be with the U-Haul....Craig