C1 Clock

[Al C.]

I'm hoping someone can answer some specific questions re this 1958 clock:
1. How long should it run, typically, between electrical rewind events?
2. What is the electrical resistance of the rewind solenoid coil?
3. On the back face, are the seemingly insulated screws wtih tiny nuts supposed to be at case ground?
4. How does one open the case to get at the contacts for cleaning - does the set knob uncrew fron its' shaft, then pry the fascia ring open?
My clock runs ok when I reach in thru the lamp hole and manually actuate the winder; but shows 4-6 ohms when it winds down.
Thanks!
... Al '58 #378 245hp NCRS SACC

[Ed Jennings NCRS #1550]

Re: C1 Clock

Al, the clock will go several minuets between rewinds, can't give you an exact number. To get the case open, first remove the knob. To do this, pull the knob out and hold the shaft with some small needlenose pliars. then unscrew the knob. More small pliars may be necessary to break it loose. The chrome bezel is staked at three points; carefully pry those points out and the bezel and face will come off. The small brass nuts hold the movement to the rear of the case. I think they have an insulator under them.

Once you get it apart, you may be able to clean the points and get it running again. If not, The Clockworks will repair it and make it look nice for less than $50 including return shipping.

[Mike G.]

Re: C1 Clock

I got mine running by squirting electrical contact cleaner through the clock (after it was out of the case). Worked wonders. It also cleans noisy and crackly pots (knobs) on your stereo. It costs $15 or $20 for a small can at an electronics store.

I still wound up sending mine to Clockworks, though, because I broke the set knob retaining spring, and as Ed said, $39.95 + shipping is so darn reasonable, it wasn't worth my time to sweat over it. Plus, they do a great job of restoring the clock's looks, included in the price.