Decided to replace seals on rear end as part of frame off. After replacing seals went to look up torque value for pinion nut only to find I should have checked drag before. Archives said 5-8 inch pounds for used bearings. Is this with half shaft yokes installed? Any suggestions on finding a Torque Wrench that reads 58 inch pounds? "It wern't broke before I tried to fix it!" Suggestions appreciated.
73 Rear End Pinion Yoke Nut Tightening
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Re: 73 Rear End Pinion Yoke Nut Tightening
You should have procured and read a chassis service manual. The drag torque spec is for the pinion bearings alone without the case installed. You tighten the pinion nut and check bearing drag torque with a 25 pound-inch torque wrench until they are in spec. There is no spec for the nut itself.
If you are changing the pinion seal in the field you are supposed to mark the position of the pinion nut relative to the flange and retighten it to the same point.
Duke- Top
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Re: 73 Rear End Pinion Yoke Nut Tightening *TL*
That inch/lb reading is measured with a 1/4-inch torque wrench with a dial read out. It is not the kind of "click" wrench so popular for other torque mearurements. AFAIK this is the only use for this type of wrench.
Terry- Top
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Re: 73 Rear End Pinion Yoke Nut Tightening
Unfortunatley, I read the manual AFTER I had it apart. I was hoping there was some way to get the nut tightened properly without having to tear the rear end completely apart. It is beginning to look like I am now in for a complete rear end rebuild.- Top
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Re: 73 Rear End Pinion Yoke Nut Tightening
Your situation is good evidence for the veracity of the old advice to read the shop manual FIRST, before you start taking things apart. Hopefully others will learn from your mistake.
I wouldn't suggest that you take the whole unit apart at this time unless you suspect internal problems. When the drive pinion was originally installed the crush sleeve was compressed until the pinion bearing drag torque was correct. I'll assume that it was assembled correctly either at the axle plant or during a field overhaul.
In the field it requires that you alternately bump the pinion nut with an impact wrench, then measure the bearing drag torque and repeat the process until the drag torque is where you want it. A good mechanic who does this all the time can probably get the drag torque right just by "feel" as he bumps the nut with an impact wrench.
With a used crush sleeve, if you tighten the nut with a rachet or breaker bar the required torque will suddenly increase once the clearance is zero, then tweak it another 32nd or a turn or so. You might also be able to feel drive pinion end play until the clearance is zero.
This is somewhat of a guess. Your diff won't be "blueprinted", but it has a decent chance of working and giving you full service life before you have to overhaul it.
Duke- Top
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