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Is it recommended to apply sealant to the intake manifold bolts? If so, where on the bolt do you apply the sealant? What kind of sealant? How do you torque the bolts. I read something about this is another forum but I can't find it again.
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Ralph----
All intake manifold bolts which go through to the coolant passages OR the lifter valley area MUST have sealant applied prior to installation. The bolts and bolt holes MUST be scrupulously clean and free from any oil prior to sealant application and bolt installation. I recommend using Lock-Tite Pipe Thread Sealer with Teflon as the sealer used.
Bolts are torqued just like any other bolt. However, a "crow's foot" adapter is necessary for some of the bolts.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Joe,
What is a crow's foot adapter? Can it be found at an auto supply store?Comment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant *TL*
Paul,
Below is a link to the Snap-on on-line catalog. Type in 214FC in the search box at the upper left and then select Part # from the box to the right of that. Hit the GO button and you will get a picture. This kind of set is also available as a flare nut or tubing crowfoot wrench Type in 207SFRH and do the same search as above. Enjoy the catalog.
TerryComment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Thanks Terry. Very much appreciated! And nice to see that they can be purchased separately. Intake bolts are 9/16" so I will speak with the Snap-on man the next time he drops by the shop. Do you recommend the open-end or the flare for intake manifold torque work? The flare looks sturdier.Comment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Paul----
The flare type IS sturdier. However, the extra thickness which generates the "sturdiness" can cause an interference problem on intake manifold bolts. Usually, the open-end crows foot is the way to go for intake manifold bolts, as well as many other tight applications for which a socket won't fit.
The flare-nut type crows foot wrenches are mainly for removing tight tubing nuts which cannot be accessed with a regular tubing wrench or for REALLY tight tubing nuts requiring a breaker bar.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Thanks Joe. I will pick up an open-ended type from the Snap-on folks.Comment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Is it a good idea to add some RTV at the Thermostat Housing gasket? if so, how much? Should it be applied to both sides of the gasket?Comment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Ralph-----
Yes, if you are using a CONVENTIONAL thermostat housing gasket, you should apply a VERY thin film of RTV to both sides of the gasket. If the thermostat housing and/or the intake manifold mating surface suffers from significant corrosion, then more RTV may be needed to effect a seal. My preference in this case would be to have the intake manifold spot faced to clean it up and/or have the thermostat housing spot faced and/or replace the thermostat housing.
Current GM thermostat gaskets have a silicone bead already applied to the gasket surfaces. So, with this gasket you don't need any RTV. However, if the manifold or thermostat housing surfaces are corroded, then this gasket won't seal too well.
Fel-Pro makes an excellent plastic gasket with integral o-ring seal. This is the ULTIMATE solution. But, it won't work if the surfaces are significantly corroded. Also, it's visible and would not be considered "correct". But, it provides a "bullet-proof" seal. Fel-Pro #2202 is the one for both big block and small block applications.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
ThanksComment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Ralph -
Thermo housings are frequently warped a bit from over-enthusiastic torquing of the bolts; I usually check them by rubbing them back and forth on a piece of emery paper laid on a piece of glass and observe the pattern on the seal surface. If it isn't even, keep working until it is, and you'll know the housing is dead flat and will seal nicely (assuming the intake seal surface is also flat). I've used the molded Fel-Pro gasket Joe mentioned on several of my other non-judged cars, and it's the ultimate solution - in addition, it's re-usable many times with no sealer needed; it's molded plastic with a ribbed silicone seal molded into the plastic on both sides.Comment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Joe, just a thought. Will the open end crowfoot have a tendency to "round" the bolt heads and slip. It appears the flare would be more like a socket and the open end is like, well an open end wrench. I am replacing my intake manifold and will be following your advice exactly. I don't want any problems.Comment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Ralph----
Yes, the open end crow's foot will tend to round the bolt head. That's why you usually can't use them for high torque fastners. But, intake manifold bolts are not so. The square-drive flare nut wrenches are designed for flare nuts. Usually, they will have the same, or greater, interference problems as a socket if used on a bolt like certain intake manifold bolts.
Also, keep in mind that a torque correction factor must be applied whenever crows foot wrenches, open end or flare nut, are used in conjunction with a torque wrench. That's because of the extra "torque arm" which they create.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
Terry - I wish Snap-On wasn't so embarrased to charge high prices for their quality...only $321 for a 14 piece crowfoot set...time for a price increase! I have a used tool supplier that often has trade brands for a lot less. Snap-On is first rate and has a nice site though...and now you can buy directly on that site....usually I chase the van in town when I want something...CraigComment
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Re: C2 Intake Manifold Sealant
John, can you tell us where to obtain the FelPro gasket you mentioned?Comment
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