C3 Front and rear suspension rebuild

[John D.]

I am rebuilding the suspension this winter. What are the pros and cons of bead blasting and finishing parts with POR 15??

I am considering a-arms, front springs, spindles, t-arms, drive and 1/2 shafts, strut arms, differential and rear spring.

Those that are to be natural clear coated and when semi-gloss black using black per the judging guide. Or is it better to bead blast natural and let it rust again?

Your thoughts are appreciated, Thanks.

[Craig S.]

Re: C3 Front and rear suspension rebuild

I have no personal experience with POR 15 but everything I have heard was bad for restoration, unless it was subsequently topcoated with something else. I would never use it myself. For natural cast iron finishes, I like to lightly bead blast, clean them in my solvent tank and let them "age" a bit, then use Krylon semi flat clear. It is almost invisible, and keeps the rust from coming back. Also, another alternative is Prelube 6 from Quanta, I have had good results with that, it seems like a heavy silcone spray material. There are many opinions out there, and there are differences in correct finishes from midyears to sharks as far as the tones of black, color, and gloss. GM 104 is supposed to be pretty good, and I believe Joe L. has recommeneed Rustoleum semi gloss for frame components. I have also used Johne Deere Blitz Black. The rear spring should be painted with Ikonoclad from Qunata, which is the original formulation heavy zinc paint, before assembly so the liners remain unpainted. The driveshaft and halfshafts are natural, and you should use prelube 6 or a dusting of Krylon semi flat clear. They also should show the welds blue, and should not show beading...best is to retube for judging.