Oh Wise Ones...
Following the advice of the Forum's best and brightest (and I mean that with utmost sincerity), I've been working to rid the sponge from my 66's brake system. The advice was to bench bleed the MC, and check the run out on all 4 rotors.
I removed the J50 MC, and proceeded to bench bleed it. I think this may fix the problem since the first compression of the MC piston produced a burble instead of a squirt. Now both ports produce a good squirt - the front port a noticeably larger volume squirt than the rear, but I figure that's the way it is by design (right?).
Now onto run-out. I set-up a dial indicator to check the front rotors; these checked-out at between .004 - .007. Pretty close to spec. Here's the rub; on checking the rear, I was having a hard time getting an accurate reading. The effort required to turn the wheels (yes, it was in neutral) made the needle wander quite a bit. Furthermore, the U-joints would bind just a bit, causing the axel to raise/lower a few thousands, thereby throwing the dial way off. I put a jack under the spring to load the suspension a bit, but the erroneous movement was still noticeable. How should I set-up the car to get an accurate measurement?
As always, thanks for the education.
Following the advice of the Forum's best and brightest (and I mean that with utmost sincerity), I've been working to rid the sponge from my 66's brake system. The advice was to bench bleed the MC, and check the run out on all 4 rotors.
I removed the J50 MC, and proceeded to bench bleed it. I think this may fix the problem since the first compression of the MC piston produced a burble instead of a squirt. Now both ports produce a good squirt - the front port a noticeably larger volume squirt than the rear, but I figure that's the way it is by design (right?).
Now onto run-out. I set-up a dial indicator to check the front rotors; these checked-out at between .004 - .007. Pretty close to spec. Here's the rub; on checking the rear, I was having a hard time getting an accurate reading. The effort required to turn the wheels (yes, it was in neutral) made the needle wander quite a bit. Furthermore, the U-joints would bind just a bit, causing the axel to raise/lower a few thousands, thereby throwing the dial way off. I put a jack under the spring to load the suspension a bit, but the erroneous movement was still noticeable. How should I set-up the car to get an accurate measurement?
As always, thanks for the education.
Comment