Just took my 64 out of storage and everything seems to be fine except my headlights. They had always been slow, but after I opened them this time, they just won't close. Not even budge ! Any suggestions ?
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Re: 64 Headlights
George, I'd suggest you remove the motors, this will allow you to verify if this is an electrical problem or mechanical binding. To remove motors remove retainer on the stub shaft that prevents the motor from turning. Remove the sheet metal bracket screwed to the motor case, and unplug the connector on the back of the motors. Slide the motor out (this may be tight if they been there for thirty plus years). The head lite buckets should rotate freely with the motors out. It fact they should swing to 1/2 open position due to gravity.If that happens the problem resides with the motor assembly (possibility in car's wiring or switch). Using jumper wires and a battery check out the motor once it's out of the car. One negative lead to the motor case and the positive lead to one of the connector spades at the connector on the back of the motor. One spade is for up the other is down. If the motor comes alive, the problem may still be the motor... gear wear, motor brushes, or motor bearing. Manny times the motor will run without a load but stop or run very slow if motor brushes are on their last leg. The rear case bearing can also bind the motor shaft causing the same problem. The most frequent bad guy is the gear that is driven, it's aluminum and gets eaten up by the motor shaft gear. This gear can be replaced. To get this gear out will require removal of the motor from the case and seperation of the case halves. I think this entire procedure has appeared in various corvette publications. Remember to remove the 30 year old grease and regrease. Going back to the car check with a meter the lead to the motor for power when the up/down switch is engaged. Make sure you have a good ground to the motor ground lead (single black wire). Hope this helps ya. -
Re: 64 Headlights
George, I'd suggest you remove the motors, this will allow you to verify if this is an electrical problem or mechanical binding. To remove motors remove retainer on the stub shaft that prevents the motor from turning. Remove the sheet metal bracket screwed to the motor case, and unplug the connector on the back of the motors. Slide the motor out (this may be tight if they been there for thirty plus years). The head lite buckets should rotate freely with the motors out. It fact they should swing to 1/2 open position due to gravity.If that happens the problem resides with the motor assembly (possibility in car's wiring or switch). Using jumper wires and a battery check out the motor once it's out of the car. One negative lead to the motor case and the positive lead to one of the connector spades at the connector on the back of the motor. One spade is for up the other is down. If the motor comes alive, the problem may still be the motor... gear wear, motor brushes, or motor bearing. Manny times the motor will run without a load but stop or run very slow if motor brushes are on their last leg. The rear case bearing can also bind the motor shaft causing the same problem. The most frequent bad guy is the gear that is driven, it's aluminum and gets eaten up by the motor shaft gear. This gear can be replaced. To get this gear out will require removal of the motor from the case and seperation of the case halves. I think this entire procedure has appeared in various corvette publications. Remember to remove the 30 year old grease and regrease. Going back to the car check with a meter the lead to the motor for power when the up/down switch is engaged. Make sure you have a good ground to the motor ground lead (single black wire). Hope this helps ya.Comment
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Re: 64 Headlights - very dim
My headlights are very dim. Could there be a bad ground? Where do I start?Comment
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Re: 64 Headlights - very dim
My headlights are very dim. Could there be a bad ground? Where do I start?Comment
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Re: 64 Headlights - very dim
Brian,
Dim headlights indicate a high resistance connection somewhere in the circuit. It could be either in the hot side or the ground side. The first thing to check is the most vulnerable spot. That would be the connector at the radiator support area. If both headlights are dim then it is in a connection that is common to both headlights. Unplug and re-plug the connection once or twice to see if the lights come up to full bright.
I use a copper based anti-seize compound as a coating on the contacts in these type plugs. It has worked very well for me. Use it very sparingly as it will short between conductors if there is a path. John
Indy Meet Registration
Administrator
www.ncrs.orgComment
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Re: 64 Headlights - very dim
Brian,
Dim headlights indicate a high resistance connection somewhere in the circuit. It could be either in the hot side or the ground side. The first thing to check is the most vulnerable spot. That would be the connector at the radiator support area. If both headlights are dim then it is in a connection that is common to both headlights. Unplug and re-plug the connection once or twice to see if the lights come up to full bright.
I use a copper based anti-seize compound as a coating on the contacts in these type plugs. It has worked very well for me. Use it very sparingly as it will short between conductors if there is a path. John
Indy Meet Registration
Administrator
www.ncrs.orgComment
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Re: 64 Headlights - very dim
Try a product called Tarn-X to clean off the contasts and ring terminals. It does not seem to harm the plastic connector blocks if submerged. Best way is to slide out the brass spade connectors with a small screw driver so you can work the Tarn-X with your wife's tooth brush...(just kidding, use old tooth brush).Then use vasoline as others suggested to protect the now new looking connectors. Be sure to assemble spade connectors in original positions.Comment
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Re: 64 Headlights - very dim
Try a product called Tarn-X to clean off the contasts and ring terminals. It does not seem to harm the plastic connector blocks if submerged. Best way is to slide out the brass spade connectors with a small screw driver so you can work the Tarn-X with your wife's tooth brush...(just kidding, use old tooth brush).Then use vasoline as others suggested to protect the now new looking connectors. Be sure to assemble spade connectors in original positions.Comment
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