c1 283 oil - NCRS Discussion Boards

c1 283 oil

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  • John C.
    Expired
    • September 30, 2001
    • 130

    c1 283 oil

    Whats the best grade and brand for a oil change?
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43193

    #2
    Re: c1 283 oil

    John-----

    To be honest, any motor oil that meets the most current API specs, currently "SL", for gasoline engines is going to be fine for your engine.

    However, my personal preference is Mobil 1 Synthetic. I would use their 10W-30 weight for your engine.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • john pickens

      #3
      Re: c1 283 oil

      Regarding oil...
      Any truth to the idea that synthetic oil usage may result in leaks when
      used in older vehicles?

      Comment

      • Peter K.
        Expired
        • January 1, 1999
        • 117

        #4
        Re: c1 283 oil

        I used Mobil synthetic oil in my '54, and Yes it did leak. I was told to switch to 10W 30, to my suprise the leaks have stopped.

        Comment

        • kenneth bingener NCRS#38563

          #5
          Re: c1 283 oil

          John, Check the archives back about 2 months ago. There was a similar post and one of the responses recommended 15-40 diesel oil ie Rotella - available at most Autozone, Walmart etc. The diesel oil has similar additives and properties that the older oils had in the past and the newer oils don't have. A few responders said that the synthetic caused leaks. Good luck.

          Comment

          • kenneth bingener NCRS#38563

            #6
            Re: c1 283 oil

            Type in Rotella in the archives. Look at what Duke said. 4/02 and 6/02 etc.

            Comment

            • Greg A.
              Very Frequent User
              • June 30, 1998
              • 141

              #7
              Re: c1 283 oil

              Old seals that may have picked up some aromatic compounds and swelled from mineral oils may, in fact, give these aromatics back up to the synthetic oils and "shrink." This causes the weeping that has been seen when switching to synthetics. High quality synthetic lubricants will contian seal swell agents to combat against this and it's not as common as it once was.

              My feeling is you are better off using a good quality mineral oil and changing a couple times a year, especially if you don't drive it very often. If synthetics get contaminated with mositure or combustion by-products, it's just as bad as a mineral oil in the same condition.

              Comment

              • Joe C.
                Expired
                • August 31, 1999
                • 4598

                #8
                Right On, Greg!

                Finally, someone with the same opinion on synthetic motor oils for use in cars that are infrequently driven. Why spend $4-$5 a quart for synthetics, if you would be wiser to change your motor oil annually or semi-annually, whether it is "dirty" or not? Does everyone know that if they start their engine, and not run it for a sustained period of time at operating temp., that they are doing more harm than good? Many people do not realize that the sulfides contained in blow-by gases, when mixed with condensates formed in an engine as it warms up, create H2SO4 (sulfuric acid), which resides in your crankcase. Obviously, it is in your best interest to get this out ASAP. In my opinion, the extra expense of synthetics is not justified for use in an infrequently driven car, and it is much better to invest the money in more frequent oil changes.

                Joe

                Comment

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