First - My thanks to Kieran and others who helped me through this.
Now the results... ALL IS OK.
The problem was debris and corrosion in the 'bottom' of the piston bores; nothing dramatic, but enough to keep the pistons from traveling freely. I was able to clean it up with fingernail, denatured alchohol, and 'crocus cloth' (see later advice). I took the opportunity to replace the original pistons with VetteBrakes O-Ring conversion pistons (note to Terry MacManmon - thanks for keeping me honest and safe. I did all four wheels - 16 pistons). Joe Lucia's description of how to check the pistons (loss of 'gold' anodizing) prompted me to do this. I disconnected all the connecting blocks and blew them forward and backward per Robert Wilson's suggestion.
HERE'S MY FINDING'S - Hope they help!
CROCUS CLOTH (For fine retreatment of the piston bores) - Your local NAPA shop probably won't know what you're talking about. When you say wet/dry sandpaper at 1500+ grit, they'll be able to help.
PISTON SPRINGS - VetteBrakes recommended to re-install the piston bore springs, even with their 'zero-tolerance' piston O-Ring conversion kit.
'SILASTIC SEALANT' - VetteBrakes advised that this was OK if you wanted to do it, but it really didn't add anything to the fluid sealing properties of the pistons. In other words, it just might help keep dust/etc. out of the area between the piston external boot and the interior fluid seal.
SEATING the DUST BOOTS - DON'T PAY FOR A PROPER SIZED SOCKET ($16+)!! - Go to your local hardware store and get a 1-1/4" connector for (black) steel pipe ($1.50 at Ace). This fits perfectly over the dust boot seal. It's not a perfectly machined surface so you will need to either 'true it up' if you want to use it in a vice/press, or you can just tap the seal into place with a hammer (that's what I did).
Hope this helps next time guys!!!!
Earle
Now the results... ALL IS OK.
The problem was debris and corrosion in the 'bottom' of the piston bores; nothing dramatic, but enough to keep the pistons from traveling freely. I was able to clean it up with fingernail, denatured alchohol, and 'crocus cloth' (see later advice). I took the opportunity to replace the original pistons with VetteBrakes O-Ring conversion pistons (note to Terry MacManmon - thanks for keeping me honest and safe. I did all four wheels - 16 pistons). Joe Lucia's description of how to check the pistons (loss of 'gold' anodizing) prompted me to do this. I disconnected all the connecting blocks and blew them forward and backward per Robert Wilson's suggestion.
HERE'S MY FINDING'S - Hope they help!
CROCUS CLOTH (For fine retreatment of the piston bores) - Your local NAPA shop probably won't know what you're talking about. When you say wet/dry sandpaper at 1500+ grit, they'll be able to help.
PISTON SPRINGS - VetteBrakes recommended to re-install the piston bore springs, even with their 'zero-tolerance' piston O-Ring conversion kit.
'SILASTIC SEALANT' - VetteBrakes advised that this was OK if you wanted to do it, but it really didn't add anything to the fluid sealing properties of the pistons. In other words, it just might help keep dust/etc. out of the area between the piston external boot and the interior fluid seal.
SEATING the DUST BOOTS - DON'T PAY FOR A PROPER SIZED SOCKET ($16+)!! - Go to your local hardware store and get a 1-1/4" connector for (black) steel pipe ($1.50 at Ace). This fits perfectly over the dust boot seal. It's not a perfectly machined surface so you will need to either 'true it up' if you want to use it in a vice/press, or you can just tap the seal into place with a hammer (that's what I did).
Hope this helps next time guys!!!!
Earle
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