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Should I buy rear rotors for my 72 that are corrosion resistant? Will this help the Ebrake from building up rust and rendering it uselesss after a year or two like the other three 72s I have had. finally, I have replaced cables,hardware and shoes to no avail and the service shop said try new rotors as the cutting of the older internal drum ones may have deformed the radius sufficiently enough to produce minimal contact with the shoes - does this make sense to anyone? thanks, michael
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Re: e Brake on 72
Michael - first, I am not aware of any corrosion resistant rotors, they are all made of raw cast iron. The parking brake (and that's all I would call them vs emergency brakes) can be had in stainless steel versions. I have heard from some folks (not personally verfified) that the curvature of the aftermarket stainless steel shoes is off and will not correcty match the curvature of the drum inside the rotor. Granted, as your mechnainc comments, if the drum has been tured too large this will also cause a mismatch of the shoes. I try to stay with GM shoes, whether relined or new. However, the stainless steel parking brake components besides the shoes will help keep the linkage working freely. Since I live in Arizona, I have never had an issue with humidity and continue to use the original GM assemblies. Even when you have these assemblies set up correctly, the effectiveness is minimum, and if anybody forgets the brake engaged it will glaze the shoes quickly and render them next to useless anyway....Craig -
Re: e Brake on 72
I've never heard of anyone turning the drum portion of a rear disk, nor can I imagine the benefits of doing so. If you think of it, the rougher the surface, or the more a drum is out of round (elliptical), the more effective it would be in holding a car still.Comment
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Re: e Brake on 72
Thanks, but 'out of round' is eliptical in nature, a difference in radial dimension between two surfaces to which it is intended to have maximum mating is quite another thing. - and it is to that point that I refered what was recommended or in this case done to the drums.
I agree at first it would seem that a 'rusted ' surface would cause more friction, but this is not really the case once the rust builds up and is 'smoothed' -done by repeated brake application.
With the above said, - Back to your eliptical concept - I like it! What about DELIBRETALY makaing it lumpy - ?
Seriously, if the drums are stock radius, the shoes are stock, it should be axiomatic that the brake works like new no?? WIll the antirust thing help. thanks, michael.Comment
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Re: e Brake on 72
Craig -could not agree more. And now I do remember that little bit about the off brand shoes - HMMM.. In any event I like it when it works AND I am old enough in the tooth now that I gave up california turns a while ago!. The rust thin? I was looking in Mid america and they offer a 'Coating that' protects the disk from corrosion and so I assumed this benefit may also transfer to the inner drum itself. what do you think. thanks both of you fro taking time with this. michaelComment
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Re: e Brake on 72
Michael, I haven't noticed the coating you mention from Mid-America or had any experience with it, no need for it on the friction surfaces of the disk but it may help the rest, I am not really sure it would be much benefit on the parking brake mini drum shoe seating area either, and may be detrimental and clog the shoes themselves, again, I have no clue if it leaves a residue. On the non load bearing areas, it sounds like it would keep the rotors cleaner, if they are spotlessly clean when it was applied such as from bead blasting. Personally, I would not use it on my cars, but, I don't really have a need....good luck though!...CraigComment
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