Cast and forge parts finish

[Rainer S.]

I am restoring a 63 SWC Fuelie. Body off. Frame is restored. I am working on the suspension and would like to know, how to preserve the natural finish of the as cast or as forged details, such as rear end housing and cover, rear spindle supports, front stearing gearbox (as cast), front stabilizer bar, linkage, pitman arm (as forged), drive shaft and half shafts (as extruded/cast). As per the Tech Information Manual and Guide, these parts are left "natural", unpainted. Some of the parts were media blasted (rear end hsg, drive shaft,frt.stab.bar).Other linkage forged parts and spindle supports are still discolered, but not media blasted.
Should I blast them also ? And what do I put on them, to keep them from rusting ?

[Bryan L.]

Re: Cast and forge parts finish

Some guys coat the parts with liberal amounts of wheel bearing grease and wipe off the excess the next day. Cosmoline makes a product called Weathershed (or Weatherwax) that gives a waxy type of coating and is supposed to keep it rustfree for a while. Quanta sells a spray on product called Pre-Lube 6. I buy a product made by CRC and I believe it is called 1450 Rust Inhibitor (don't have it handy)from a pipeline supply company. Your only other choice is painting which is what I've done with a lot of my suspension parts. I will cost me judging points but I live on the Texas Gulf Coast where it is very humid and a part will rust in a very short time. I've also used the Krylon Satin Clear spray but in my case it didn't protect very well.

HTH

BL

[Rainer S.]

Re: Cast and forge parts finish

Thanks, Bryan.
I agree, that clear coat paint does not last. I will order a can of "Platinum Steel Paint" from Paragon. That will do it. Being in Michigan, we have huminity also.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Cast and forge parts finish

Rainer,

It's next to impossible to correctly restore this type of finish. For the most part, we try for some close approximation.

Some people use muriatic acid at 50% to remove light rust, and then use a satin clear.

I just had my front spindles shot peened (not bead blasted or sand blasted) and coated them with Pre-Lube 6. I'm in Michigan too, but I don't expect the car will ever see snow or salt again.

Personally, I really dislike the fake appearance of cast blast paints. Unfortunately I have yet to come up with an alternative that I like, so I'm trying several on the same car. For some parts, I've just de-greased and then used the Pre-Lube 6. We'll see in the long run.

Patrick

[John M.]

Re: Cast and forge parts finish

Rainer,

I have found a pretty good process to return the cast items to their original look after bead blasting. The parts will be way too silver looking and will rust very fast after bead blasting, but if you dunk the parts in one of the cold blackening solutions for just a couple of seconds, the parts will return to their original look. Then you can paint with matte clear or just keep them oiled. The tubes on your axle and halfshafts however, are almost impossible to return to their original look without re-tubing them.

Regards, John McGraw

[Bill W.]

Re: Cast and forge parts finish

Johns right many of the cast susp. parts are almost black and have places where the flashing has been ground off.i have used the blackening and "cleaned" the machined or ground areas.you can dip in any heavy oil, greese,stp,etc. just make sure it soaks in good .let it drain then wipe clean. it is also easy to touch up and clean , just wipe down with oily rag.I have also used cast blast .

[Rainer S.]

Re: Cast and forge parts finish

Thanks, Pat, John and Bill.
I will try the (3) steps, namely Muratic acid, dip in cold blackening fluid and preserve with grease or clear paint, will see which lasts the longest. And you are right, drive shaft and short shafts may have to be re-tubed.