Just when I thought it couldn't get worse... I hope the answer is no but, was it common practice to spot weld the upper control arm bushings in place (all 8 of them)??? That's what I found in my car last night upon the start of the front end rebuilding. I haven't checked the all of the lowers yet, I'm hoping for the best. I guess I'll try to grind off the welds and hope the A frames are still OK. That aside, should I replace the arms and bushings, or just the bushings??? How much force should be used to remove the kingpin lock bolt? I bought some NOS bushing kits, the upper inners were missing the rubber seals, are these available seperately??? That's it! Thanks!!! Jim
-
-
Re: C1 - 61 Front Suspension
1. Spot weld the bushings to the "A" arm. Don't know what to say about that one. You don't want the bushing turning on the "A" arm. The bushing's supposed to turn on the shaft. But spot welding them is dramatic. Maybe "Bubba" tack welded them because the "A" arm holes were enlarged. Or, .... Who knows what?
2. The kingpin lock bolt on my '62 required lots of heat and a bazillion pound press to get it out. You should have seen how deformed it got. 'Course that was nothing compared to the force required to get the kingpin out and the lower outer bushing out. I was taking the knuckle off anyway, so I brought the whole thing to a machine shop. Remember to use anti-seize when you replace them.
3. The rubber seals are available. I got all of them from Zip for around $20. The bushings should come with seals, though, so check them first. -
Re: C1 - 61 Front Suspension
After much pounding with an 8# sledge, I got the lock out, I wacked away at the king pin for 15 minutes and gave up late last night. Do the grease fittings hold anything in, because I forgot to remove them from the spindle???Comment
-
Re: C1 - 61 Front Suspension
The grease fittings don't interfere with the kingpin. 'Course, you might as well take them out. Another place to squirt PB Blaster or Kroil.
Most kingpin articles I've read state that you have to use heat to get the kingpins out. You did get the spring clips and welch plugs off at both ends, didn't you? After that and the lock pin, there's nothing holding them in.
I had the same difficult time you are having. From the literature, I believe that's common. There's some good articles on this in the "Restorer." After you get them out; get the bore cleaned up with emery cloth; and, grease everything, you'll be surprised at how easily they slide up and down. A remarkable difference.
Are you doing both sides at the same time? The spindles are interchangeable. The knuckles are not. On one side, the grease fittings in the knuckle go to the front. On the other, to the back. If you've mixed them up, I can look up the information.
Are you also replacing the bushing on the bottom of the knuckle? You'll never get that one out without heat. That went in there 40+ years ago with 175 ft/lbs of torque. Reason I ask is that if you have to go to a machine shop anyway, they might as well do both things at the same time.Comment
-
Re: C1 - 61 Front Suspension
Thanks Chris! I am wailing on the right pin with a 12# sledge hammer and it is just laughing at me. I'll try heat this weekend. I am doing both sides but because the upper 8 control arm bearings are welded and seem to be tight; the lowers are NOT welded and are also tight, I am going to wait until next winter to get them.
Side note: are you part of NCRS New England?
JimComment
-
Re: C1 - 61 Front Suspension
If bubba's weld job destroyed your A-arms , they are identical to that used on 49 to 54 chevy pass cars.So is the cross member, King pins and all the A arm bushing . Third arm not interchangable. try old junk yards for the pass car A-arms if you need to replace yours.Comment
-
Re: C1 - 61 Front Suspension
Yes. Please contact me off-line at cjr1@gte.net. Maybe I can help on this. I've had my car mostly inactive since 1974. I can't get the private messaging thingy to work.Comment
Comment