Help!!! my C1 won't start!!

[Don Izzo]

After 2 1/2 years of work on my 60 (frame off) 230 hp,with cast iron automatic purchased in a basket, I was ready last night to turn the key!! However when I did nothing happened. I think I have a wiring problem because I was able to start the rebuilt motor by jumping the starter solinoid. However when I use the key I get power to all accessories but it doesn't energize the starter solinoid. All components are new. I plan to check the neutral starter switch tonight by use of a test light. I believe when the trans is in neutral the switch provides ground to the starter relay. Is this correct? I also do not know if the ammeter harness to the starter relay is wired to the correct terminals on the relay. I bought the new relay from Mary jo. It has four terminals however only three wires go to the switch. Looking at the switch starting from the top, going clockwise, I have the black from the safty switch on the first terminal then nothing on the second, then the violet on the third and the yellow on the last. Is this correct. I will have to recheck the connections on the starter and the ignition switch once I confirm the relay connections

[Chuck G.]

Re: Help!!! my C1 won't start!!

I'm no expert, but every "powerglide" relay I've ever seen is a "3 pronger", not 4 as you describe. And yes, when the car is in Park or Neutral, that completes the ground circuit. What is the "number" on the relay? Chuck

[roy braatz]

Re: Help!!! my C1 won't start!!

A relay from a Fork lift Co. has the same relay, only you need to connect abus or wire to two terminal on the back side to make it work.It looks just like the original three prongs.

[John M.]

Re: Help!!! my C1 won't start!!

Don,
The original relay had only 3 terminals. Thre coil and the contacts shared a common + voltage DC. Your relay sounds like it has dedicated connections for both the contacts and the relay coil. It would be a simple process to put a jumper across from the coil to the + side of the contacts. Then the other side of the coil goes to the neutral safety switch which grounds out the circut and allows the coil to energize.
You will need to identify the teminals in the following manner. The 2 terminals that connect to the coil will have continuity when checked with a meter and the contacts will not. You will need to identify the coil first and then the other 2 terminals are the contacts by default. Land the + wire on one side of the coil and jump over to one side of the contacts, then take the other side of the contacts to the solenoid and the other side of the coil to the neutral safety switch. Don't forget to check the safety switch while you are checking the relay coil, as the switchs are very prone to failure given that they are constantly being splashed with water. If the switch is bad, do not throw it away! An original is very hard to find, but they can usually be repaired. If it checks out bad, drop me an Email and I can tell you haw to rebuild it.

Regards, John McGraw