I have been told that I need to replace the T.arm bushings on my 63 conv. I would like to know what else I should rebuild while I have them removed as I don't think I care to attempt this dissasembly but once. I would appriciate advice from someone who has done this procedure before. I'm not looking forward to this, wrong time of year to have my 63 down! Thank You in advance for any advice. member #24633 Also I would like to speak with someone about joining the chapter that would be closest to the Ill. Ind. lines on I-70. Thanks again!
-
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
"C.E."-----
This is the type of project where one thing leads to another. But, if you truly want to do it once and be set "for the duration", here's what I recommend:
First, if you're going to remove the trailing arms from the car(which you must to replace the forward bushings)you might as well rebuild the entire trailing arm assemblies if the car has over 50,000 miles since any previous rebuild. This is a job that myself and others have covered procedurally in previous posts and you can refer to the archives. However, this is a job that I don't recommend unless you have the special tools and experience to do it properly. Carter's Corvette in Livermore, CA, Bair's Corvette in Linesville, PA and Van Steel in Clearwater, FL have the expertise and tools to do the job. The cost will be about $250 per arm, including all new service parts and bearings.
Second, while you have the arms out of the car, you should service the half shaft u-joints. Chances are, they'll need replacement and now is the time to do it.
Third, with the arm and the half shafts out of the car, check the differential stub axles for end play. If you can feel any perceptible "in and out" movement, the stub axles will need to be replaced. That means removing the differential from the car. And, as long as you have the differential out of the car.....well, you know what comes next.
Fourth, replace the strut rod bushings and replace the spring rubber cushions when you reassemble everything.
Like I said, with a trailing arm job, one thing leads to another. That's the way it is.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
"C.E."-----
This is the type of project where one thing leads to another. But, if you truly want to do it once and be set "for the duration", here's what I recommend:
First, if you're going to remove the trailing arms from the car(which you must to replace the forward bushings)you might as well rebuild the entire trailing arm assemblies if the car has over 50,000 miles since any previous rebuild. This is a job that myself and others have covered procedurally in previous posts and you can refer to the archives. However, this is a job that I don't recommend unless you have the special tools and experience to do it properly. Carter's Corvette in Livermore, CA, Bair's Corvette in Linesville, PA and Van Steel in Clearwater, FL have the expertise and tools to do the job. The cost will be about $250 per arm, including all new service parts and bearings.
Second, while you have the arms out of the car, you should service the half shaft u-joints. Chances are, they'll need replacement and now is the time to do it.
Third, with the arm and the half shafts out of the car, check the differential stub axles for end play. If you can feel any perceptible "in and out" movement, the stub axles will need to be replaced. That means removing the differential from the car. And, as long as you have the differential out of the car.....well, you know what comes next.
Fourth, replace the strut rod bushings and replace the spring rubber cushions when you reassemble everything.
Like I said, with a trailing arm job, one thing leads to another. That's the way it is.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
CE... Every thing Joe said is true. This is not a PRETTY job if the trail arm bushing bolts do not want to come out. If this is the case plan on cutting thu them shims bolts and all with a saws-all. The blade will be cutting between the frame and the trail arm bushing thru the steel shims. If you're lucky the trail arm bolt can be tap out with a bar, to get you away from the fender, and a couple blows with a hammer. This job is less stressfull with the body off, cause like Joe said this type of job keeps growing. Let us know how you make out.Comment
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
CE... Every thing Joe said is true. This is not a PRETTY job if the trail arm bushing bolts do not want to come out. If this is the case plan on cutting thu them shims bolts and all with a saws-all. The blade will be cutting between the frame and the trail arm bushing thru the steel shims. If you're lucky the trail arm bolt can be tap out with a bar, to get you away from the fender, and a couple blows with a hammer. This job is less stressfull with the body off, cause like Joe said this type of job keeps growing. Let us know how you make out.Comment
-
It happened one Saturday...
Hi Mr. Storer!
Everything you read above is the absolute truth.
I had occasion to remove the right rear trailing arm on my 1967 car. Only three days ago even. Thank goodness I didn't know about the differential yoke trick or I might still be there...
A few notes:
1. Highly reccomend purchasing a rebuilt trailing arm/parking brake/rotor(or drum for 1963)assembly from Vette Brakes or Van Steel. Approx $300/side exchange. The rear spindle supports are dated and the shield has small "Delco" lettering, both of which are unavailable.
2. 1963 cars (early) use different shims and bolts than later mid-years.
3. Getting the old U-joints out can be quite a task.
(Fortunately my trailing arm bolts removed with "easy pounding"..)
4. Agree on replacing strut rod bushings. Your original strut rods have a smaller diameter bushing than current replacements...but removing those bushings is a real job. Probably should replace both sides concurrently.
5. Attend to all brake issues (lines/hoses, etc.) The rear caliper lines may not remove easily - I purchased an extra set in case I would need ($20/set).
Oops have to rin to L&D CarlComment
-
It happened one Saturday...
Hi Mr. Storer!
Everything you read above is the absolute truth.
I had occasion to remove the right rear trailing arm on my 1967 car. Only three days ago even. Thank goodness I didn't know about the differential yoke trick or I might still be there...
A few notes:
1. Highly reccomend purchasing a rebuilt trailing arm/parking brake/rotor(or drum for 1963)assembly from Vette Brakes or Van Steel. Approx $300/side exchange. The rear spindle supports are dated and the shield has small "Delco" lettering, both of which are unavailable.
2. 1963 cars (early) use different shims and bolts than later mid-years.
3. Getting the old U-joints out can be quite a task.
(Fortunately my trailing arm bolts removed with "easy pounding"..)
4. Agree on replacing strut rod bushings. Your original strut rods have a smaller diameter bushing than current replacements...but removing those bushings is a real job. Probably should replace both sides concurrently.
5. Attend to all brake issues (lines/hoses, etc.) The rear caliper lines may not remove easily - I purchased an extra set in case I would need ($20/set).
Oops have to rin to L&D CarlComment
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
C.E. One more thing I would suggest replacing while you have access to it, would be the upper and lower differential front mount cushions, these cushions do deteriorate after several years. It just goes on and on just like the other members said. Good Luck FloydComment
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
C.E. One more thing I would suggest replacing while you have access to it, would be the upper and lower differential front mount cushions, these cushions do deteriorate after several years. It just goes on and on just like the other members said. Good Luck FloydComment
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
Just finished this job last week-Had my entire trailing arms and assemblies rebuilt by Bairs (300 each including the dust shield stamped delco). Machine shop required to replace strut rod bushings-but most important lesson learned--do not warp, bend the yokes on the half-shafts while removing or replacing the u-joints. Any change, even though it appears to be perfect, straight etc., and your now out-of-balance. Resulting in severe rear suspension vibration, and you know what happens next....Comment
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
Just finished this job last week-Had my entire trailing arms and assemblies rebuilt by Bairs (300 each including the dust shield stamped delco). Machine shop required to replace strut rod bushings-but most important lesson learned--do not warp, bend the yokes on the half-shafts while removing or replacing the u-joints. Any change, even though it appears to be perfect, straight etc., and your now out-of-balance. Resulting in severe rear suspension vibration, and you know what happens next....Comment
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
John----
Bending the half shaft spindle flange is a VERY COMMON problem when inexperienced restorers/mechanics attempt to replace half shaft u-joints. I learned this lesson about 20 years ago. Half-shaft u-joints are FAR more difficult to replace than their driveshaft counterparts. Sometimes folks think that because they've had experience replacing driveshaft joints, they can graduate to half-shaft joint replacement without trouble. But, it's not that easy. To replace the half shaft u-joints a special fixture must be used to support and reinforce the half shaft flange. This fixture is not available commercially, but must be fabricated. As an alternative, a scrap spindle outer flange can be used as a more-or-less satisfactory fixture.
Beyond that, the half-shaft u-joints require FAR more force to remove and reinstall. On installation they must be fully "compressed" in order to install the retaining clips. Often, when this is done, the u-joint "locks up" and must be "adjusted" by an experienced hand. During this struggle to install the joints, a common problem is to have one of the needle bearings become dislodged and "lay down". Then, usually, a bearing cap is destroyed. Since you can't purchase a single bearing cap anymore, you have to buy a complete new u-joint. I use a hydraulic press to perform this procedure for my own car and I don't recommend even attempting this repair without one.
The other alternative is to take the half-shafts to a driveline repair specialty shop which has the experience and tools to do the job properly. Usually, this is not very expensive. Make sure that they use high quality Spicer U-joints. Undamaged half shafts DO NOT require balancing. Damaged half shafts or flanges should be discarded.
Also, keep in mind that even if you are apparently successful in installing the half shaft u-joints, if they are not installed EXACTLY correctly, you will have VERY SHORT LIVED u-joints. The half shaft u-joints are highly stressed since they are an integral SUSPENSION component as well as driveline component in a C2 or C3 chassis.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: 63 trailing arm bushings
John----
Bending the half shaft spindle flange is a VERY COMMON problem when inexperienced restorers/mechanics attempt to replace half shaft u-joints. I learned this lesson about 20 years ago. Half-shaft u-joints are FAR more difficult to replace than their driveshaft counterparts. Sometimes folks think that because they've had experience replacing driveshaft joints, they can graduate to half-shaft joint replacement without trouble. But, it's not that easy. To replace the half shaft u-joints a special fixture must be used to support and reinforce the half shaft flange. This fixture is not available commercially, but must be fabricated. As an alternative, a scrap spindle outer flange can be used as a more-or-less satisfactory fixture.
Beyond that, the half-shaft u-joints require FAR more force to remove and reinstall. On installation they must be fully "compressed" in order to install the retaining clips. Often, when this is done, the u-joint "locks up" and must be "adjusted" by an experienced hand. During this struggle to install the joints, a common problem is to have one of the needle bearings become dislodged and "lay down". Then, usually, a bearing cap is destroyed. Since you can't purchase a single bearing cap anymore, you have to buy a complete new u-joint. I use a hydraulic press to perform this procedure for my own car and I don't recommend even attempting this repair without one.
The other alternative is to take the half-shafts to a driveline repair specialty shop which has the experience and tools to do the job properly. Usually, this is not very expensive. Make sure that they use high quality Spicer U-joints. Undamaged half shafts DO NOT require balancing. Damaged half shafts or flanges should be discarded.
Also, keep in mind that even if you are apparently successful in installing the half shaft u-joints, if they are not installed EXACTLY correctly, you will have VERY SHORT LIVED u-joints. The half shaft u-joints are highly stressed since they are an integral SUSPENSION component as well as driveline component in a C2 or C3 chassis.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
Comment