Some 63 questions

[Steve Styllis]

Hi

I have a few questions.

I'm wondering about the finish on the seat belt buckles on my 63. the 63 judging guide describes the buckles as a satin finish. Are they painted a satin or were they polished to a satin finish. Mine are very flat in finish and don't look like they'd polish up very well (or easily). If they are polished has anybody any idea what to use to polish them up as they let down the whole interior of the car.

What would you consider as the normal running temp for a 63? Mine hovers between 180degrees and the next mark up. Owners handbook is not any help. seems to run fine but the needle being over the "half way mark" is a bit disconcerting. Also the oil pressure (60lb gauge) shows 30lb when hot and at idle rising to the next mark or just over when revved.

Does Nolan Adams have an Email address? feel free to respond directly to me if you dont want to broadcast it. Is anyone still doing a survey on 63's?

Thanks all in advance. Steve

[ron smith]

Re: Some 63 questions

I have a 340hp engine and it normally runs around 200. In stop and go traffic it heats up very quickly. A friend told me that if you drill a small hole in the fringe around the thermostat it will run cooler. I may try this.

[ron smith]

Re: Some 63 questions

I have a 340hp engine and it normally runs around 200. In stop and go traffic it heats up very quickly. A friend told me that if you drill a small hole in the fringe around the thermostat it will run cooler. I may try this.

[Chuck G.]

Re: Some 63 questions

Hello Steve; The buckles are a satin polished finish. You can achieve this finish by hand using various polishes, or by judiciously using a buffer. You don't want a "chrome like" finish. My 63 360 FI roadster runs dead on 180 degrees. On the hottest day of the summer, at idle, it might hit 200. You might want to check the archives. Much has been written about mismatches between the sender and the gauge. Check the actual temperature with a meat thermometer in the surge tank to see if you're actually running at the indicated temperature. My oil pressure runs at about 40 psi at idle....about 900 to 1000 rpm. I have the 80 lb. gauge. Hope this helps. Chuck

[Chuck G.]

Re: Some 63 questions

Hello Steve; The buckles are a satin polished finish. You can achieve this finish by hand using various polishes, or by judiciously using a buffer. You don't want a "chrome like" finish. My 63 360 FI roadster runs dead on 180 degrees. On the hottest day of the summer, at idle, it might hit 200. You might want to check the archives. Much has been written about mismatches between the sender and the gauge. Check the actual temperature with a meat thermometer in the surge tank to see if you're actually running at the indicated temperature. My oil pressure runs at about 40 psi at idle....about 900 to 1000 rpm. I have the 80 lb. gauge. Hope this helps. Chuck

[C.E. Storer]

Re: Some 63 questions

My 63 runs consistently at arround 180, I installed a new thermostat last year and it did not change the temp. so I feel pretty good at that degree, my oil pressure stays at arround 40 lb. mine is an 80,000 mile car, never been rebuilt or restored. hope this helps c.e.storer

[C.E. Storer]

Re: Some 63 questions

My 63 runs consistently at arround 180, I installed a new thermostat last year and it did not change the temp. so I feel pretty good at that degree, my oil pressure stays at arround 40 lb. mine is an 80,000 mile car, never been rebuilt or restored. hope this helps c.e.storer

[Jack H.]

Re: Some 63 questions

Hum, meat thermometer in surge tank may have drawback(s) in that you have to remove cap to immerse (de-pressurize the system -- can affect temp). I 100% agree with your suggestion to test the accuracy of the gauge/sender before making conclusion!!!

My approach has been to wrap a thermal probe (thermometer DOES work) in insulating tape to the outside/bottom of the block outlet radiator inlet hose (make sure everything clears the fan) and let 'er come to steady state temp. Now, you're seeing the exhaust coolant temp with system sealed/working.

BEST approach is to use an HVAC guy's IR gun (pin point spot temp from a comfortable distance), but these setups aren't cheap or available to the mainstream population....

[Jack H.]

Re: Some 63 questions

Hum, meat thermometer in surge tank may have drawback(s) in that you have to remove cap to immerse (de-pressurize the system -- can affect temp). I 100% agree with your suggestion to test the accuracy of the gauge/sender before making conclusion!!!

My approach has been to wrap a thermal probe (thermometer DOES work) in insulating tape to the outside/bottom of the block outlet radiator inlet hose (make sure everything clears the fan) and let 'er come to steady state temp. Now, you're seeing the exhaust coolant temp with system sealed/working.

BEST approach is to use an HVAC guy's IR gun (pin point spot temp from a comfortable distance), but these setups aren't cheap or available to the mainstream population....

[Jack H.]

Re: Some 63 questions

(1) As others have said, chrome plate is lightly polished to leave

surface striations and knock off bright/smooth finish to achieve

the satin finish.

(2) Temp readings will vary with: (1) accuracy of temp gauge/sender,

(2) calibration of your voltage regulator (gauge reads current

flow through non-linear resistive load in temp sender and the

system is NOT constant current source supplied -- depends on

current supply voltage level, (3) state of wear of your engine

internals, (4) state of wear of your cooling system, (5) presense

of correct original air flow baffles (shroud, Etc.), (6) as well

as fan clutch and fan blade integrity. Lots to consider, but

what you're seeing it pretty close to the mark (steady state temp

hovering close to typical thermostat pop point).

(3) Oil pressure will fluctuate depending on viscosity of oil (high

performance multi-weights can be expected to vary more than fixed

weight oils when hot), the state of wear on engine internals, and

the integrity of your oil pressure gauge. But, examples you give

don't seem distrubing.

[Jack H.]

Re: Some 63 questions

(1) As others have said, chrome plate is lightly polished to leave

surface striations and knock off bright/smooth finish to achieve

the satin finish.

(2) Temp readings will vary with: (1) accuracy of temp gauge/sender,

(2) calibration of your voltage regulator (gauge reads current

flow through non-linear resistive load in temp sender and the

system is NOT constant current source supplied -- depends on

current supply voltage level, (3) state of wear of your engine

internals, (4) state of wear of your cooling system, (5) presense

of correct original air flow baffles (shroud, Etc.), (6) as well

as fan clutch and fan blade integrity. Lots to consider, but

what you're seeing it pretty close to the mark (steady state temp

hovering close to typical thermostat pop point).

(3) Oil pressure will fluctuate depending on viscosity of oil (high

performance multi-weights can be expected to vary more than fixed

weight oils when hot), the state of wear on engine internals, and

the integrity of your oil pressure gauge. But, examples you give

don't seem distrubing.

[steve styllis]

Re: Some 63 questions, Thanks All

Thanks everyone, I feel reassured.

Regards from England Steve

[steve styllis]

Re: Some 63 questions, Thanks All

Thanks everyone, I feel reassured.

Regards from England Steve