Correct engine for my 64

[Joel]

I am hoping someone can help me figure out what engine my car had when it left the factory. The car is a 64 conv.with a 1977 350.

The tachometer in the car has the high reving yellow/red line indicating it was the 365 or fuel injected engine. However, bolted onto the current 350 are parts (exhaust manifold, carb.etc.) from a lower power 63-64... Corvette. How do I know if A.) the tach is original or correct? or B.)if the engine components bolted to the current 350 block are original to the car...

I would like to restore the car but don't know where to locate this info.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct engine for my 64

Joel----

A positive ID is probably not possible but there are several things that you could do.

First, examine the engine components that you consider are possibly original. Exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds and carburetors usually have date codes. If these date codes are consistent with the build date of your car(from under dash trim plate), the chances are they are original components. That will, of course, greatly assist in ascertaing the original engine option.

As far as the tach goes, if you could remove it from the car, you might find a paper label on the back which includes a date code. If the date code is inconsistent with the car's build date(e.g. after the car was built), then you know that this is not the original tach. These tachometers were available in service until fairly recently so it is very possible that a tach was unit-replaced somewhere along the way.

Like I said, there is no fool-proof method to determine the original engine option. However, through patience and thorough "detective work", you may be able to "piece together" a reasonably accurate assessment of what engine was originally installed in your car.

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct engine for my 64

Joel----

A positive ID is probably not possible but there are several things that you could do.

First, examine the engine components that you consider are possibly original. Exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds and carburetors usually have date codes. If these date codes are consistent with the build date of your car(from under dash trim plate), the chances are they are original components. That will, of course, greatly assist in ascertaing the original engine option.

As far as the tach goes, if you could remove it from the car, you might find a paper label on the back which includes a date code. If the date code is inconsistent with the car's build date(e.g. after the car was built), then you know that this is not the original tach. These tachometers were available in service until fairly recently so it is very possible that a tach was unit-replaced somewhere along the way.

Like I said, there is no fool-proof method to determine the original engine option. However, through patience and thorough "detective work", you may be able to "piece together" a reasonably accurate assessment of what engine was originally installed in your car.

[Jack H.]

Re: Correct engine for my 64

Advice Joe Lucia gives you about backtracking to original configuration being 'tough' is all too true. There are telltale signs here/there, but much of this involves getting experts to physically look at the car. Even then, as Joe says, there may be too many threads pointing in different directions to really pin point what the car was without primary research via past owner chain and state registrations data bases.

But, if you belong to a local NCRS Chapter, this makes a neat group activity (workshop) for a chapter meeting. Why not contact your local chapter Chairman and Judging Chairman and run the concept up the pole?

[Jack H.]

Re: Correct engine for my 64

Advice Joe Lucia gives you about backtracking to original configuration being 'tough' is all too true. There are telltale signs here/there, but much of this involves getting experts to physically look at the car. Even then, as Joe says, there may be too many threads pointing in different directions to really pin point what the car was without primary research via past owner chain and state registrations data bases.

But, if you belong to a local NCRS Chapter, this makes a neat group activity (workshop) for a chapter meeting. Why not contact your local chapter Chairman and Judging Chairman and run the concept up the pole?

[Bill Bell]

Re: Correct engine for my 64

The advice Joe and Jack gave is sound, but heres a few thoughts from a 64 L84 car owner...if you remove the instrument cluster, I have stamped in red ink a date..if yours is red and the date consistent with manufacture, then your on your way to becoming a rookie detective. Also, L84 cars will have a purple wire leading from the wiring loom near the center of the firewall (engine side)..this purple wire leads to a micro switch on late 64/65 F.I.units...if thats there, score another point for the rookie detective...Good investigating...

[Bill Bell]

Re: Correct engine for my 64

The advice Joe and Jack gave is sound, but heres a few thoughts from a 64 L84 car owner...if you remove the instrument cluster, I have stamped in red ink a date..if yours is red and the date consistent with manufacture, then your on your way to becoming a rookie detective. Also, L84 cars will have a purple wire leading from the wiring loom near the center of the firewall (engine side)..this purple wire leads to a micro switch on late 64/65 F.I.units...if thats there, score another point for the rookie detective...Good investigating...

[Paul E. Young]

Re: Correct engine for my 64

one other easy quick check would be an 80# oil guage and a 21/2 exhaust support at the transmission. I also would look at the radiator support as the fuelie has a fresh air intake through it. One last thing would be a look at the inside of the front fenders where the fuel injection emblems would have been to see if the mounting holes were filled. Good luck with your detective search.

[Paul E. Young]

Re: Correct engine for my 64

one other easy quick check would be an 80# oil guage and a 21/2 exhaust support at the transmission. I also would look at the radiator support as the fuelie has a fresh air intake through it. One last thing would be a look at the inside of the front fenders where the fuel injection emblems would have been to see if the mounting holes were filled. Good luck with your detective search.