C3 -Frame
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Re: C3 -Frame
Jim,
When I did my frame, I was told by the people who 'dipped' it that the rusting process started as soon as they were done. So, they suggested that I should primer it as soon as I can. This doesn't mean that it will turn into a rust-bucket within a few weeks but, why let the process get too far?
Since it may be a few weeks for the repairs, why not do the repairs first? I assume that the repairs include some welding, which requires a rust free surface and one why of doing that would be to sandblast it first. But, you could grind the surface clean for the welding areas and then sandblast the whole thing when the repairs are done. Just a thought!
Gary- Top
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Re: C3 -Frame
Jim: Etch primer or etch wash would be an excellent first step in the priming sequence. I would follow it with an epoxy primer such as PPG DP-90. In fact, I usually just do the DP-90 epoxy alone, but doing the etching primer first would be a good foundation. Epoxy is not really a surfacer, so if there are areas you want to fill (pits, etc) then you may want to topcoat that with a urethane primer-surfacer (or you could use catalyzed spot putty filler if only in small areas). Also, if you plan a paint topcoat you have to consider that, but I like the look of DP-90 for the finished frame.
As for timing, the main thing you need to watch is the recoat window on any product you use. Personally, I like to get a freshly-blasted frame covered ASAP and I don't like sanding frames. Therefore I would blast, DP-90 immediately, do any spot priming/filling/sanding immediately thereafter, recoat with DP-90 to cover any of the spots within 24 hours of first coat. Then later do the welding/repairs by grinding away the finish where needed, welding, feathering/scuffing the "old" DP-90 adjacent the repairs, and blending back with new DP-90.
Hope that makes sense. Point is, cover the frame ASAP and mind your recoat window or scuff appropriately.
-Karl- Top
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