C1 restoration questions

[John A. Salce]

I have a 1959 Red on Red with Fuel Injection, power windows, and power top. When I purchased the car 27 years ago it was a basket case. The car was raced; the frame and body are excellent because of little inclement weather driving. However, when I originally put the car together I was not concerned with originality or correctness. Now things have changed in that regard and I have the following questions:

1) I would like to “verify” this car is a fuelie. Also, the original Fuel Injection scripts were broken because they were just thrown in a box of parts. I purchased reproductions many years ago and also punched body filler out of the fender holes. Still, I would like to sleep better knowing 100% that this car is what was represented to me back in 1975. How can I find the exact location of the fender holes? Did GM have a template? Any other clues to look for on an original Fuel car?

2) What color should the doorjamb conduits be? Plated, painted, or both?

3) Did the WonderBar radio or clock have any dating on them? I believe I have an ink stamp on the back of the clock. It is hard to make out but looks like 1959.

4) I have what MAY be original door panels. What should I be looking for when evaluating these? The horizontal stitching just below the metal looks wider than what I have seen on other cars.

5)The original fuse block was cracked and needs replacing. I am leery about keeping old wiring in the car anyway. The reproduction harness (I just purchased from a reputable house) has a slightly different fuse block. The repro has two bosses on the insulation (back) side and a number/letter logo missing in the top, recessed area. Is this OK with NCRS judges? I already put back the original white (yellow now) connectors and the metal bulb sockets. Glad this harness was so accurate!

Thank you all in advance for your feedback!

[Michael H.]

Re: C1 restoration questions

Hey John -

These and many other questions you'll come up with are answered in Noland Adam's book. Get a copy from NCRS and you won't regret it.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: C1 restoration questions

To verify the factory FI installation there are about a dozen "tests". Some are not applicable if the car was a hydraulic lifter fuelie. Most of these tests involve the air cleaner and the movement of the windshield washer to the right fender well(if so equipped). The car should have the mounting bracket for the AC on the left upper inner fender as well as holes for mounting the fresh air hose brackets. There should be no plate covering the hole in the radiator support or any evidence of the three little holes ever having screws in them. The horn relay will be moved down to the verticle surface below its usual location. If it is a 290, the tach should have the higher redline 6000+, and be distributer driven with a factory hole in the firewall for the cable. With the kick panels out, you should be able to see the holes in the fenders for the emblems. There should be NO mounting holes for a washer on the left side inner fender. There are probably a couple of other things I've overlooked, but if these all check out it is probably a fuelie. If ANY of these items don't match up, I would begin to be suspicious.

[John A. Salce]

Re: C1 restoration questions

Thank you Mike. I just ordered it. I had ordered some books earlier but missed that one. I still could use some immediate help until the book arrives on my other questions however. Any suggestions from other members out there?

[Don H.]

Re: C1 restoration questions

One other thing I would add is that my 60 had some type of black "tar like" substance sprayed on the back where the F.I. emblems mount and you could see the nuts were there when sprayed. Don H.

[John A. Salce]

Re: C1 restoration questions

Don: Thank you for your input! I will look for that.

[Tom B.]

Re: C1 restoration questions

"There should be no plate covering the hole in the radiator support or any evidence of the three little holes ever having screws in them."

Ed,

Do I understand from this statement that there was no screen on this opening like there is on the heater intake on the other side?

Tom

[William C.]

Re: C1 restoration questions

No Screen Plate used with 250 HP, open with 290 hp, look for signs of screw threads in the sheetmetal holes. There should be no evidence of threads on a 290hp.

[Loren L.]

Re: C1 restoration questions

You might wish to check the SIZE of the screw holes - the truly creative counterfeiter removes any sign of the screw threads by running a SLIGHTLY larger drill bit through the holes.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: C1 restoration questions

I am presently working on a 59 which I believe to be an ex-fuelie. It has the same tar like substance under the fenders.

[John A. Salce]

Re: C1 restoration questions

Ed: Thank you for your input!