Last summer before parking my '64 for the winter, occassionly after the engine was thoroughly warmed up after driving, the starter would not engage. The solenoid would click but would not engage the starter. It would start after cooling down for 30 mins or so. I am assuming the solenoid needs to be rebuilt. It is original to the car and has never been touched. My question is two-fold, can the solenoid be rebuilt by an experienced automotive electrical shop and is the problem I described caused by the solenoid or could it be the starter? I will probably have both rebuilt to be safe in any case. Thanks, David
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Re: C2 Solenoid Question
Yes, the solinoid can be rebuilt, assuming that the plastic parts are in good shape. I would suggest first you try a couple of things though. Remove the solinoid and take it apart enough to turn the bolt for the battery cable around 180 degrees. You will see why when you do it. You may also want to install a lighter spring. -
Re: C2 Solenoid Question
Thanks for the advice. I have a lift so it should be an easy project. If the cable bolt is the indeed the problem, is it just a coincidence that the problem happens after the engine is hot or does the heat effect that bolt somehow?
Thanks again, DavidComment
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Re: C2 Solenoid Question
This is a common problem with GM starter solinoids. The lighter spring will help. Turning the bolt around will restore the contacts. Also make sure that all connections are clean and tight.Comment
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Re: C2 Solenoid Question
David - what Wayne is refering to is the bolt has an electrical contact surface that mates to a large conducing washer that acts as a switch between the post that the battery cable attaches to and the contact that connects the starter power feed. By rotating the bolt 180 degrees as Wayne suggests, you expose a brand new contact surface to the conduction washer. These pit and burn down over time, to the point where the contact is minimal or poor (to non-existant) and unreliable. This trick gives the solenoid a new lease on life....CraigComment
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Re: C2 Solenoid Question
I love it! Thanks guys, you've saved me a few bucks for sure. DavidComment
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Re: C2 Solenoid Question
David,
It sounds like the "pull in coil" in the solenoid is shorting out from the loss of coating.
Starters 101
When you turn the ignition key the path is completed at the solenoid and the "pull in coil" is energized creating a magnetic pull on the piston inside. this also energizes the "hold in coil" in the solenoid.
These 2 coil windings are of different size wire gauge for their different current requirements. Thwe pull in wire is larger than the hold in wire.
As the solenoid pulls the piston back, it forces the large solenoid contact disc to make the high current connection for the starters windings and armature. As that piston is pulled back, this is when the bendix or starter teeth move forward into the flywheel's teeth. The teeth on the bendix drive are beveled so that they can engage or mesh and not just sit at gear face to gear face when the starter begins to spin when the contact disc makes contact in the solenoid allowing full current to the starter.
I could go on and on about starters. I designed them for 3 years.
DonThe light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off.Comment
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Re: C2 Solenoid Question= David
David,
In addition to Wayne's recommendation, inside the solenoid back cover will be a disc about the size of a silver dollor. Swap sides so the other side of the disc is contacting these copper bolt contacts. Better yet, in the 50's -'60's these disc were made of copper. Copper is much better conductor than the later C.I.ed versons. Copper discs often show up in the venders "junk box" at a car show flea market. Regards,Comment
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