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I am considering buying a 1972 lt1 with matching #'s in very good conditon.
The color is the correct targa blue and the car was painted in 1990.
The car does not it's original transmission and this concerns me.
Would this affect the investment quality of the vehicle?Thanks
The transmission is a part of the big picture and if is a correct four speed for a 72LT1 would be best. All other parts of the Corvette are very imporant as to what it is worth. As for investment grade if bought at a good price today you may well get your money back in full when you sell if it needs little work. If one wishes to buy and sell Corvettes for a profit I leave that to the high rollers.
Yes but the date codes casting numbers need to be in line with when it was built and then the VIN is on the housing just like on the block. As for flight judging on a C-3, the transmission is hard to read all the numbers.
Certainly, depending upon what you mean by "correct". The original transmission for this car would have been either an M-20 or M-21 Muncie with a main case casting number of 3925661, an extension housing casting number of 3978764, and a side cover casting number of 3952648. Such a transmission would not be difficult to find or assemble. Externally, when installed in the car, there is no visual difference between an M-20 and M-21. The difference relates to internal gear ratio.
The real issue might be stamped "numbers". These are numbers which are stamped on the right (passenger) side rear vertical surface of the transmission main case. These include the car's VIN-derivative (the last several characters of the car's vehicle identification number found on the left side windshield pillar post, under the glass) and the transmission production code which includes the date of manufacture.
Unless you could find the original transmission that came with the car(or, at least, the main case), it would be difficult to reproduce this. That's becuase the same stamping die that was used to stamp the engine was used to stamp the transmission with the VIN derivative. So, the stamping would have to duplicate what is on the block and this is very tough to do.
However, I really wouldn't be too concerned about these stamped numbers. Installing an otherwise correct transmission would be the most important thing. In fact, the car may have such a transmission installed in it now---just lacking the stamped numbers.
Was the original transmission replaced under the cars warranty or was it stolen out of the car? It could have the correct replacement transmission from GM either by warranty or insurance replacement.
There are Corvettes out there with this type of replacement. Several short block engines have been put in Corvettes under warranty with the CE stamping on the block instead of the original factory stamping.
If you are buying the car to enjoy it and drive it, this replacement transmission is to your advantage at getting a 72 LT-1 for perhaps less money because the factory stamped transmission is missing from the drive train. Hope you have the M20 and not the M21 close ratio. The M20 is easier to get going from a stop, especially on a incline.
Thank you very much, the data that was presented re the 72lt1 has really been
invaluable to me. We are going to see the car again in a few days. The car is
for sale at a shop that has done my corvette mechanical work for 20+ years
and they have always been straight with me. They said the car is a one owner
and when I go in I'll get the owners name and probe further as to what happened
with the transmission and get as much additional data as I can. I'll let you know what we decide!
If this falls through could someone suggest a show that would have nice cars for
sale. We were thinking of going to Bloomington this year.
Thanks again, will keep you posted Carol
Bloomington and Carlisle will have many Corvettes for sale. Perhaps, more than you'll want to look at. These will be for sale both at auction and in the open field, one-on-one environment.
I'll repeat something that I've said so MANY times before: the most important thing to inspect for in the 72 (or any Corvette) that you are looking at is a sound frame and sound birdcage. The birdcage area is difficult to inspect, but the frame is easy. Significant corrosion in either area drops the value of the car DRASTICALLY, whether or not the owner wants to accept that fact. Personally, I wouldn't touch a car suffering from significant corrosion damage for any price----there is just too much that is unknown about the final repair cost (and the HASSLES that you'll have to consequently endure) to arrive at a fair price to pay for the car (and, the owner will likely never accept a price reduction of even the minimum amount that a repair would cost---they'll just look for another neophyte buyer).
If the frame has not suffered from previous collision damage/repair, is free of serious corrosion damage AND the birdcage is, as far as can be told after careful and close inspection (possibly aided by removal of the windshield stainless trim) free of serious corrosion AND the body is straight and, hopefully, not previously repaired, then you've got a WINNER. Don't worry, at all, about the "small stuff" like an original transmission with "matching numbers". A CORRECT transmission, even if one is not currently in the car, will not be that hard to find (without VIN derivative stamping, of course).
Joe, Thank you for the great advice. When I bought my 64 and 71 I had
the frames evaluated before I bought the cars. I was not aware of the
birdcage inspection though.
My husband and I will be looking over the 72 again this week sometime.
We will be able to inspect the frame and ask to view the birdcage.
If this is not the car for us we located a 71LT1 in Cleveland Oh.
We are hoping that there might be a NCRS member owned shop in the area
that we could take the car to for an inspection.I don't feel that we could personally make a decision based on our limited experience.
Will keep you posted!
The birdcage area is, unfortunately, very hard to inspect. It's one of those condtions, like high blood pressure, that has no symptoms or outward signs until you have the "heart attack". If you could remove the windshield stainless trim, you could sometimes see some evidence of it, but most sellers aren't going to allow this. Most folks usuually discover it when they replace a windshield or, for convertibles, when the top of the windshield frame starts "bending in" and the softop gets "loose"..
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