Clicking noise in rear, 72 - NCRS Discussion Boards

Clicking noise in rear, 72

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  • Eric Fairclough

    Clicking noise in rear, 72

    Hello, I drove my 72 yesterday and I was stuck in stop and go traffic. I noticed it mad a faint clicking noise everytime you turn the steering wheel a slight bit and you coast at about 1 mph or a little less. It did it when i turned the wheel left and right but it did not do it when the steering wheel was kept straight. Could this be the u joint starting to go bad? I had overhauled the entire braking system about 2 years ago so it can't be that. The rearend i put the general motors gear oil and posi attitive so i don't think it is that either. The u joints are orginal and i have 73,000 miles on the car. Your comments would be appreciated. Thanks Eric
  • Jim T.
    Expired
    • March 1, 1993
    • 5351

    #2
    Re: Clicking noise in rear, 72

    If your rear brake rotors/discs have the factory original rivets that retain the unit to the spindal removed, I would suspect the clicking noise coming from the rear calipers due to excessive runout. Been there and heard that.

    Comment

    • Eric Fairclough

      #3
      Re: Clicking noise in rear, 72

      Jim, I though it might be the u joints because i heared they click when the go bad. Any suggestions what i should do? Thanks Eric

      Comment

      • Edward McComas

        #4
        Re: Clicking noise in rear, 72

        Had the very same thing happen recently to my 72 automatic coupe. It turned out that the spring that holds the parking brake shoes together on the driver's side had broken. If your rotors are not still riveted to the spindles, take the wheel and rotor off and check the parking brakes on both sides.

        On a related note, any ideas on an easy (easier) way to remove rusted trailing arm bolts. Mine had never been apart, and the bolts were rusted to the bushing sleeve. Got the shims out, but no amount of penetrating oil, beating, prying, etc. would break the bolts loose. Ended up using a sawzall with a 9 inch carbide blade to cut the bolts inside the frame. Four cuts (one on each side of the trailing arms) chewed up two brand new carbide blades.

        Is there a better way / special tool to make this job easier?

        Comment

        • Bernard M.
          Expired
          • August 31, 1994
          • 341

          #5
          Re: Clicking noise in rear, 72

          Eric, I've had a similar clicking noise which turned out to be U-joints. You may be able to tell by looking carefully at the U-joints around the bearing cap. A redish dust is a teltale sign of a dry U-joint. Good luck.

          Comment

          • Craig S.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • June 30, 1997
            • 2471

            #6
            Re: Clicking noise in rear, 72

            That is the best safe and easy way! The easier and dangerous way is the ol hot wrench, but you might light up the glass, or, worse yet on the passenger side, the fuel line in the vicinity. I did this once in my younger, stupider days, and was lucky, I think the sawzall approch is the way I would go since I have become more sane and safe with age....Craig

            Comment

            • Mike McKown

              #7
              Re: Clicking noise in rear, 72

              Eric:

              I think you have diagnosed your problem. If the have the "click" will turn into a "clack" in short order. Like Bernard said, look for rust colored dust around your caps. Sure sign of a problem.

              Mike

              Comment

              • Eric Fairclough

                #8
                Re: Clicking noise in rear, 72

                Thanks for the info guys. I will check for the dust on the caps of the u joins and see if it clicks off of the ground. Eric

                Comment

                • Mike McKown

                  #9
                  Re: Clicking noise in rear, 72

                  Eric:

                  Don't be suprised if you hear nothing with the rear wheels hanging in space. You will be running the U-joints on a different angle than curb position.

                  Mike

                  Comment

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