Is there a way to determine how many shims are needed per side of the trailing arms to give a close alignment. The dork (ME) that took the trailing arms off was so concerned about getting the rusted bolt out of the hole I forgot to take reference of the shims. I replaced the trailing arms since and need to no if there is a formula to get a things close. Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you
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Keith Burmeister -
Re: Another trailing arm question
Keith----
There is no "formula" or other means that I am aware of to calculate the number of shims required to "rough in" the rear toe adjustment. If I was in your predicament, I think I would start by placing half of the required shim pack thickness on each side of the trailing arm forward bushing and go from there. The only problem that this will create is the possibility that it will take your alignment shop a lot longer to get the adjustment right. Since most shops only do 63-82 Corvette rear alignments "by the hour", it may increase your final cost for the job. As far as tire "scuff" goes, if you are within a reasonable distance from the shop you use, you shouldn't experience significant tire wear.
I recommend the use of stainless steel, slotted-type shims for trailing arm. Of course, stainless steel is not "correct" for any 63-82 Corvette and the "slotted" shims were used only from about 70+, but, unless you're interested in strict originality, the stainless steel slotted shims are the way to go. Even if you decide not to go stainless, under no circumstances use the non-slotted shims. This will increase your alignment costs dramatically and very likely, even at increased cost, will result in your getting an inferior alignment job. Installed on the car, it is difficult or impossible to tell if the slotted or non-slotted shims are installed.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Another trailing arm question
Keith----
There is no "formula" or other means that I am aware of to calculate the number of shims required to "rough in" the rear toe adjustment. If I was in your predicament, I think I would start by placing half of the required shim pack thickness on each side of the trailing arm forward bushing and go from there. The only problem that this will create is the possibility that it will take your alignment shop a lot longer to get the adjustment right. Since most shops only do 63-82 Corvette rear alignments "by the hour", it may increase your final cost for the job. As far as tire "scuff" goes, if you are within a reasonable distance from the shop you use, you shouldn't experience significant tire wear.
I recommend the use of stainless steel, slotted-type shims for trailing arm. Of course, stainless steel is not "correct" for any 63-82 Corvette and the "slotted" shims were used only from about 70+, but, unless you're interested in strict originality, the stainless steel slotted shims are the way to go. Even if you decide not to go stainless, under no circumstances use the non-slotted shims. This will increase your alignment costs dramatically and very likely, even at increased cost, will result in your getting an inferior alignment job. Installed on the car, it is difficult or impossible to tell if the slotted or non-slotted shims are installed.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Another trailing arm question
Keith
Sometimes you can determine the shim pack by the rust patterns on each shim. I have done this before with great results. The point that Joe Lucia makes is valid. The stainless shims are the best way to go. There is a major difference between the two types of shims when on the car. Depending on the year, you car may or may not be drilled for the 6" cotter pin that holds the sloted type shim packs in place. The sloted shims do get tucked into the frame. The non-sloted shims do not need the pin and do not get tucked in the frame. This is very easy to spot when looking in the rear wheel well. If originality is not a question I would try to use the sloted shims . CAUTION, The cotter pin must be used if you go with sloted shims. Good LuckComment
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Re: Another trailing arm question
Keith
Sometimes you can determine the shim pack by the rust patterns on each shim. I have done this before with great results. The point that Joe Lucia makes is valid. The stainless shims are the best way to go. There is a major difference between the two types of shims when on the car. Depending on the year, you car may or may not be drilled for the 6" cotter pin that holds the sloted type shim packs in place. The sloted shims do get tucked into the frame. The non-sloted shims do not need the pin and do not get tucked in the frame. This is very easy to spot when looking in the rear wheel well. If originality is not a question I would try to use the sloted shims . CAUTION, The cotter pin must be used if you go with sloted shims. Good LuckComment
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Re: Rear Alignment Question
Is it possible and perhaps helpful to take the restored chassis to be aligned before the body is dropped in place? Seems it would make it a lot easier for the mechanic to work on, but maybe the geometry is different depending upon the weight? Just curious.Comment
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Re: Rear Alignment Question
Is it possible and perhaps helpful to take the restored chassis to be aligned before the body is dropped in place? Seems it would make it a lot easier for the mechanic to work on, but maybe the geometry is different depending upon the weight? Just curious.Comment
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Re: Rear Alignment Question
Brandon,
When body is removed from chassis it is impossible to aligned the rear. The chassis sits so high that even the shocks can't be installed correctly until weight is applied. Corvettes should have both front and rear aligned at the same time with all parts installed. With all the time and money put into the car it would be a smart idea to have the alignment checked out anyway.Comment
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Re: Rear Alignment Question
Brandon,
When body is removed from chassis it is impossible to aligned the rear. The chassis sits so high that even the shocks can't be installed correctly until weight is applied. Corvettes should have both front and rear aligned at the same time with all parts installed. With all the time and money put into the car it would be a smart idea to have the alignment checked out anyway.Comment
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Re: Rear Alignment Question
Thanks Trebor. What I really was actually interested in was the placement of the trailing arm shims prior to body drop, especially since I'm using the original type shims with the holes. I figured it would be a lot easier for the alignment shop to get those things set up with the body off, however I realize the near impossibility of having suspension geometry set up wout the weight of the body.Comment
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Re: Rear Alignment Question
Thanks Trebor. What I really was actually interested in was the placement of the trailing arm shims prior to body drop, especially since I'm using the original type shims with the holes. I figured it would be a lot easier for the alignment shop to get those things set up with the body off, however I realize the near impossibility of having suspension geometry set up wout the weight of the body.Comment
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