1960 Brake System

[Rick Krason]

I have recently rebuilt the brake system on my 1960. All four wheels are shoes, no discs. I replaced the shoes, cylinders/slaves, hardware, lines, transfere blocks...everything up to the master cylinder. The master cylinder was really in pretty good shape (I thought), so I bought a rebuild kit, honed the inside of the chamber, replaced all the springs and seals and put it back together...being careful not to take too much off of the cyllinder with the hone.
Replaced the fluid, bled the brakes and all seemed to be working well, no leaks, etc. When I took the car on the road, the brakes are like MOOSH...worse than before the rebuild (before the rebuild, I had several cylinders/slaves on a couple of the wheels that were frozen due to corrosion). I get some stopping, but need to pump the brakes several times, need to take the pedal all the way to the floor, and they seem to fade. I am assuming that it is the master cylinder, but wanted some input. Does this sound like something/some seal is installed wrong and leaking back....reason for fade and poor pressure? Do I need a new master cylinder? Have it "professionally" rebuilt?
Also, I had a pull to the right front side before I rebuilt the brake system...was told that was likely a poor functioning cylinder on the left front that made the right front seem to grab so much in comparison....if you had seen the wheel cylinders, you would have believed that. However, with the new lines, cylinders, shoes, etc, I still feel it pullling to the right up front...thought that even with poor pressure, I would at least now be having "even" pressure !!! Any ideas about the cause of that???
Thanks in advance for your input and suggestions.
Rick Krason

[Dennis C.]

Re: 1960 Brake System

Rick - To start with, I would recheck the brake adjusment to make sure there isn't excessive clearance between shoes and drums. Maybe you've done this, but suggest you adjust until heavy drag - to center the shoes - and then back off to a light occasional scrape. Attempt to back off equally at all 4 corners.

[Dennis A.]

Re: 1960 Brake System

Rick...

Dennis C. is correct on the adjustments, Also I found that you should re-adjust after you have worn the brakes a little. Before you make any wild decisions on the Master Cylinder, I would bleed the system again, to make sure the air is out.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: 1960 Brake System

Be sure you bleed starting at the rear. As was pointed out to me the other day, the left rear is actually the furthest from the MC and should be the first bled.

[Tom Mueller]

Re: 1960 Brake System

Rick..
Having recently gone through the same game on my '59 I'd like to add some things....If you were diligent on your home work, and it sounds like you were,
and you were up on.... primary/secondary springs, primary/secondary shoes, emergency brake adjustments being done after the service brake adjustment,and good bleeding technique, Then all that's really left is "all in the wrist"
The adjustment is CRITICAL on these old drum brakes. These linings not only have to push away from anchor pin, but also have to have just enough clearance to move down a little bit, in a self centering action. Now then..with the car on jacks, turn the tire in a normal direction of travel duplicating forward movement of the car. Expand the the shoes til you feel a snug drag all the way around the drum. Turn the tire a full rotation and the drag must be uniform or it's not right. It's more feel than what it sounds like. Back off 7 clicks, careful, be sure and look at the star wheel, sometimes it makes a noise but doesn't turn. If, after doing all that, you hear a slight drag noise when turning the tire....forget it! If, after doing that, you spin the tire and it stops at some high spot....forget it! You're good to go

[Dennis C.]

Re: 1960 Brake System

Tom - Sound pretty good to me. Might not undo that many clicks, but pretty close. DC

[John H.]

Re: 1960 Brake System

When I restored my '57, I replaced everything but the backing plates, and I had the replacement shoes/linings "arced" to match the I.D. of the (freshly-turned and still within limits) original drums at a local brake shop; made a huge difference in initial adjustment and solid brake performance (no "point contact" areas). Adjusted them when I installed everything, never had to touch them again for the last 5,000 miles since, never had any "pull" or uneven application issues.