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Body shims also

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  • Don Shirey

    Body shims also

    My project 63 was not marked with the number of shims per body mount. What is the proper method to adjust the body not knowing how many shims when where ? Any help would be appreicated.

    Don 31553
  • G B.
    Expired
    • December 1, 1974
    • 1407

    #2
    This is what I do.

    If there is no clue as to the original shim distribution, this is what I do. I know it's a head-scratcher when you buy a basket case with the body already off the frame and the shims stuffed into one unmarked bag.

    First I set the new cushions and spacers on the frame in the right locations. I then lower the body (with doors installed) down onto the frame for a preliminary fit. I leave the sling loosely attached because I know the body must be raised again.

    Next I check each mount location to see which ones require no shims. In other words, which spacers/cushions are already immoveable. Certainly some will be under compression even with no shims - something's got to be supporting the body. Then I look at the loose mounting locations and estimate how many shims each one requires to take up the slack. You can access all of them with your fingers to feel how loose they are.

    All the above is done with the chassis fully assembled, the drivetrain in place, and the frame supported on the tires. I usually leave the seats, hood, and all body trim off during this procedure. I don't believe the weight of these parts is significant.

    Next I relift the body a foot and insert shims as they are needed until all of the mount locations feel snug. I then install the core support and recheck all mount locations to see if the shim requirements have changed. Sometimes the two mounts at the firewall need more shims when the core support lifts the fenderwells.

    The door fit should be checked at this point, especially on convertibles. I've found that coupes are so rigid that the rear mounts don't need special shimming just for door fit.

    I start all the mounting bolts by hand before I torque any down. I also check the alignment of the core support with the lower fiberglass valence and the centering of the gas filler in the deck opening before tightening any body bolts. You can make minor adjustments in body-to-frame alignment with all the mounting bolts loosely in place by just pushing on the body.

    Comment

    • G B.
      Expired
      • December 1, 1974
      • 1407

      #3
      This is what I do.

      If there is no clue as to the original shim distribution, this is what I do. I know it's a head-scratcher when you buy a basket case with the body already off the frame and the shims stuffed into one unmarked bag.

      First I set the new cushions and spacers on the frame in the right locations. I then lower the body (with doors installed) down onto the frame for a preliminary fit. I leave the sling loosely attached because I know the body must be raised again.

      Next I check each mount location to see which ones require no shims. In other words, which spacers/cushions are already immoveable. Certainly some will be under compression even with no shims - something's got to be supporting the body. Then I look at the loose mounting locations and estimate how many shims each one requires to take up the slack. You can access all of them with your fingers to feel how loose they are.

      All the above is done with the chassis fully assembled, the drivetrain in place, and the frame supported on the tires. I usually leave the seats, hood, and all body trim off during this procedure. I don't believe the weight of these parts is significant.

      Next I relift the body a foot and insert shims as they are needed until all of the mount locations feel snug. I then install the core support and recheck all mount locations to see if the shim requirements have changed. Sometimes the two mounts at the firewall need more shims when the core support lifts the fenderwells.

      The door fit should be checked at this point, especially on convertibles. I've found that coupes are so rigid that the rear mounts don't need special shimming just for door fit.

      I start all the mounting bolts by hand before I torque any down. I also check the alignment of the core support with the lower fiberglass valence and the centering of the gas filler in the deck opening before tightening any body bolts. You can make minor adjustments in body-to-frame alignment with all the mounting bolts loosely in place by just pushing on the body.

      Comment

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