I have a tach drive distributor which was previously identified on the board as a 1962 without a vacuum can. I would like to disassemble it for inspection. I removed the drive gear on the bottom of the shaft, but have been unable to determine how to remove the shaft. Because of the tach drive gear, it looks like it would have to slide out the bottom. That would require removal of the small flat piece on top of the shaft. Am I on the right track, or all wet ? The manual is no help. Any references, perhaps an old Restorer article?
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Re: Distributor disassembly
Steve - you need to unscrew the brass coupling on the tach drive asm first, then the mainshaft will slide right out the top of the housing...Craig -
Re: Distributor disassembly
Craig
Any tips on removing the coupling ? I don't have a screw driver wide enough to fill the slot, and I don't want to gouge the soft brass. I guess I'll go look for one with a blade big enough to fill the slot.
SteveComment
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Re: Distributor disassembly
Don't have to have a screwdriver with a wide blade to remove it. Any piece of flat metal that will fit in the slot can be used. I have Red Devil gasket scrapper that is made of steel and use one side to fit in the slot and start the process. This works on my 68 and 70 tach drive distributors.Comment
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Re: Distributor disassembly
Jim
Thanks for the tip. The scraper worked like a charm.
SteveComment
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Re: Distributor disassembly
Steve - carefully check both the cross gear and mainshaft gear for chips after you clean all the old grease off too, and when you reassemble the unit, set the end play at 0.008 or so, not the typical 0.060 you frequently find. This prevents spark scatter do to end play...CraigComment
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Re: Distributor disassembly
Craig
I inspected both gears closely and they look good; no nicks or chips.
I have a few other questions, if I may.
Now that the shaft is out, is there any further disassembly of the housing? Such as bushings in the ends of the housing?
There is a lube port covered by a spring loaded flap. I seem to remember reading somewhere that there is some absorbant material inside that may need to be changed out. But I sure can't see how that would be accessible.
Finally, your point about end play. For the distributor, is that the up and down travel of the shaft ? Is that set by the shims between the bottom of the housing and the top of the cam gear on the bottom of the shaft ?
Steve
P.S. Let me know how much the tuition is for this course.Comment
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Re: Distributor disassembly
Steve - no charge for the course! But, the value of the information may be suspect who knows! The bushigs are align honed and if worn should be replaced by a professional, and the OD of the replacement bushings varies according to Dave Fiedler at TI specialties. I would leave them alone unless you have some obvious lateral (side to side) play. There should be no more that a thousanth or so, so you should not feel much. My comment about shimming was to control end play with the gear installed, I usually measure it before disassembly with a dial indicator, take it apart, mike the shims, and add more accordingly. If I recall, GM offers shims in 0.030 and 0.010, and maybe thinner. I have some around and don't recall right now, but you can get them at places such as Dr Rebuild an LI Corvette. There is a lube well below the baseplate with a plastic dust cover, I think this is what you may be calling a flap. The well should be cleaned and greased. I belive Joe Lucia indicated what lube to use there, I have some from a now defunct specialty place in Carlisle PA ( I think it was called street specialties) that had a mix of goo like the original GM...sort of a tan translucent waxy grease. I don't know what it really was but I have a tiny bit left and there is no label on the cup. Also, on the gears, you want to grease them well and check for wear on the brass coupling from the crossgear. Too much end play here is bad too, Dave Fiedler uses a small brass button on the end of the cross gear vs the housing.... C2 distributors don't have a hole, later in the C3 era GM added a hole for a nylon button to control end play of the gear...a better design. I know vendors have brass buttons for these units, but my C2's don't have this. I use a good grade of grease such as Valvoline Syntec moly grease...CraigComment
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Re: Distributor disassembly
Steve your distributor is older than what I have, but I have seen distributors like this one the the spring loaded flap you mentioned is for periodic lubrication. The tach drive distributors of later years have a cavity at the top of the distributor housing that you can see after your remove the shaft assembly. After removing a felt absorbant piece, there is a plastic seal that is removable. Under the plastic seal where lubricant is placed for the upper bearing. Your older tach drive distributor with the external lubrication feature may supply oil to this area.Comment
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Re: Distributor disassembly
Jim
You're right. Someone earlier ID'd the distributor as a '62 but I think it"s older. The tag reads "1110985 Delco Remy 0 F 10". Are the digits after Remy a date code? 1960 June 10, perhaps?
SteveComment
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Re: Distributor disassembly-Steve
Steve,
Yes, June 10, 1960. Regards,Comment
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