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63 lower control arm

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  • Rainer S.
    Very Frequent User
    • May 31, 2003
    • 468

    63 lower control arm

    I just spend $160 (100 + ship'g)at LIC to have the upper and lower balljoints riveted. The job was done very poorly. The rivets were barely rounded, with the shank still showing. Send the to Paragon to be finished riveted for $100, got them back, job was not much better, but in the process, the they damaged the lower balljoints.The sleeve, which holds the boot on was damaged, popped off, and can't be re-attached and a plastic ring was missing.
    My problem is now, that I have to replace both lower balljoints. (they were not orig). I would like to purchase good lower balljoints with long thread stems, similar to original ones. Who sells the best replacements ?(I gave up on NOS).
    I will then mount them with bolts, not rivets, since I can't find anybody, who will do a good rivet job. Any suggestions ?
  • Mike Sasser

    #2
    Re: 63 lower control arm

    I had mine done by V Tech in Illinois. He did a very good job of riveting and restoring my A Arms. You can reach him at 815 234 4340. Ask for Gary. His address is 8245 N Pheasant Trail, Stillman Valley IL 61084.

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43193

      #3
      Re: 63 lower control arm

      Rainer----

      Where did you get the ball joints that you used---from LICS? I have never seen an aftermarket, replacement ball joint that used any positive sort of clamp for ball joint seal (boot) retention. The original GM ball joints did use a metal "band" to retain the seals. Also, I've never seen an aftermarket, replacement ball joint that had the unthreaded extensions on the ball stud. So, if the replacements that you obtained, and which were ruined by Paragon, had either of these 2 features, then I'd have to suggest that you obtain them where you got the first set. They're probably about as good as you're going to get in a replacement-type ball joint. Like I say, I've looked at a LOT of ball joints and, except for original GM, I've never seen ones with positive retainers for the seals or with extensions.

      As far as the riveting goes, quite frankly if you're using replacement type ball joints, I don't think that it's even worth the effort and trouble to rivet them. Plus, after the experience that you've had, I don't think that I'd send them anywhere. Notwithstanding that, I would say that if you had sent them to Bairs in Linesville, PA, I think that they would have gotten the rivets right.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Chuck G.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • May 31, 1982
        • 2029

        #4
        Re: 63 lower control arm

        Don't know where you're located, but I've had 2 "sets" of A frame ball joints riveted at Tony's Corvette Shop in Gaithersburg, Maryland. The shop is owned by Tony Avedisian, a long time NCRS member. Tony does most of the "rivet jobs" around here....does them VERY well. Chuck
        1963 Corvette Conv. 327/360 NCRS Top Flight
        2006 Corvette Conv. Velocity Yellow NCRS Top Flight
        1956 Chevy Sedan. 350/4 Speed Hot Rod

        Comment

        • Patrick H.
          Beyond Control Poster
          • December 1, 1989
          • 11608

          #5
          Re: 63 lower control arm

          Tony does everything VERY well on Corvettes.

          Patrick
          Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
          71 "deer modified" coupe
          72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
          2008 coupe
          Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

          Comment

          • Bryan L.
            Very Frequent User
            • June 30, 1998
            • 397

            #6
            Re: 63 lower control arm..Art @ Van Steele

            did a set for me 1 month ago. They are perfect. There are no tool marks or blemishes. He charges $52 for all 4 and supplies the rivets. It took less than 2 weeks.

            I had my own done at Nabers and they were OK, just not what I expected from a shop of that caliber.

            Try Art, you won't be disappointed.

            BL

            Comment

            • Joe C.
              Expired
              • August 31, 1999
              • 4598

              #7
              Art At Van Steel Is Top Notch *NM*

              Comment

              • Rainer S.
                Very Frequent User
                • May 31, 2003
                • 468

                #8
                Re: Art At Van Steel Is Top Notch

                Thanks everybody. I will definately have the upper ball joints re-done by one of the mentioned Vendors.
                In responce to Joe Lucia: I bought the lower balljoints on E-bay, advertized as US made, close to original. I dont think, I will be able to get a replacement. Thats why I will have to buy a pair. The metal sleeve, which came off, is approx. 1/2" wide, with an addn. plastic ring above it.(not like the orig. ones, which have the metal ring you mentioned Cant re-use those, have too much endplay) So who sells the best alterative ?

                Comment

                • Bryan L.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • June 30, 1998
                  • 397

                  #9
                  Re: Art At Van Steel Is Top Notch

                  Art supplied the lower ball joints, which I believe were either Moog or TRW. They look pretty close to the originals except for the lower stud which is threaded all the way to the end where the original b/j had a section about 3/8" or so that isn't threaded. He charged me around $20.00 each which was 7 or 8 bucks cheaper than I found them locally. If you want Genuine GM uppers (I did) be prepared to pay. The current upper ball joints don't look at all like the originals. Dr. Rebuild had a few but they're gone. I found one on ebabe for $60.00 but that was a fluke. Most of them are around $100.00 a piece.

                  Don't forget (like I did) to send the control arm shafts so he can press in new bushings and then paint it.

                  They do fabulous work, (no I'm not related).

                  BL

                  Comment

                  • George C.
                    Expired
                    • November 1, 2001
                    • 568

                    #10
                    Re: 63 lower control arm

                    Rainer,

                    I share your pain. I have been looking for someone in NC who can rivet the ball joints with no success. I got my replacement joints from Volunteer in TN, both uppers & lowers. They are not like the originals, semi-flat top uppers and lowers are threaded all the way to the grease fittings. I will probably just bolt them in as suggested previously. I will follow this thread and see if anything better turns up.

                    Thank you,

                    George

                    Comment

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