I am nearing the point of painting my 69. I ordered a used factory hood to install in place of the L-88 repo that was on the car when I bought it. I put the hood on and it fits fairly well, however, if I adjust the hood to where it fits around the sides and the back, the front of the hood sits about 1/4" above the front end. If I adjust that out, the sides of the hood sit too low. Is this normal, or am I finding that my front end has been replaced incorrectly? The hood seems to be in good shape, because I had to strip it through 2 coats of paint with no repairs found. I guess my question is, how well should the hood lay on the car? Also, where the hood pivots at the front sure seems tight. Is this normal? Thanks for any and all help.
69 Hood Question
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Re: 69 Hood Question
You will find variance in form/fit of service replacement/reproduction parts. This is often compounded by specifics of 'shim' on surrounding companion parts (E.g., inner fender-fender installation, radiator core support to frame) and the shim of the hood hinge to inner fender/core support bed.
These were 'kit' cars, not hand built vehicles. The AIM (Assembly Instr Manual) lists body component fit tolerance and even if/when line inspectors got tough on standards enforcement the seam tolerance specs were pretty loose compared to other high end vehicles of the era.
You say you see a 1/4 inch gap. If memory serves, hood gap specs ran in the 0.150 to 0.270 range....
Last, hood hinge to inner fender/rad support can be 'selectively' shimmed. General method is add/remove full length shims from beneath the hood hinge. But, there were "1/2" length shims too. This allowed you to raise the rear of hood hinge forcing the front/nose to dip...- Top
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Re: 69 Hood Question
You will find variance in form/fit of service replacement/reproduction parts. This is often compounded by specifics of 'shim' on surrounding companion parts (E.g., inner fender-fender installation, radiator core support to frame) and the shim of the hood hinge to inner fender/core support bed.
These were 'kit' cars, not hand built vehicles. The AIM (Assembly Instr Manual) lists body component fit tolerance and even if/when line inspectors got tough on standards enforcement the seam tolerance specs were pretty loose compared to other high end vehicles of the era.
You say you see a 1/4 inch gap. If memory serves, hood gap specs ran in the 0.150 to 0.270 range....
Last, hood hinge to inner fender/rad support can be 'selectively' shimmed. General method is add/remove full length shims from beneath the hood hinge. But, there were "1/2" length shims too. This allowed you to raise the rear of hood hinge forcing the front/nose to dip...- Top
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Re: 69 Hood Question
Jack,
I have taken all the shims out from under the front hinges to get the front end to sit as low as possible. It seems to me if you raise the back up, then the back wouldn't sit flush with the grate (don't know the proper term) or sit flush on either side. Am I missing something here?
tom- Top
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Re: 69 Hood Question
Jack,
I have taken all the shims out from under the front hinges to get the front end to sit as low as possible. It seems to me if you raise the back up, then the back wouldn't sit flush with the grate (don't know the proper term) or sit flush on either side. Am I missing something here?
tom- Top
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Re: 69 Hood Question
Use a 1/2 shim under the two rear most screws securing the hinge to the body. This will lower the pivot point of the hinge relative to the body, thus lowering the front edge of the hood. You will need more than one 1/2 shim at each rear most screw to achieve a 1/4" drop.- Top
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Re: 69 Hood Question
Use a 1/2 shim under the two rear most screws securing the hinge to the body. This will lower the pivot point of the hinge relative to the body, thus lowering the front edge of the hood. You will need more than one 1/2 shim at each rear most screw to achieve a 1/4" drop.- Top
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Re: 69 Hood Question
What I said and Gene's confirming is true. Your 'what am I missing" query is also valid and merits response/clarification.
Look at the hood hinge assy carefully. You'll see the bearing or pivot point is intentionally offset from center. This gives a cantilever effect. When you translate to/through the moment arm from the hinge pivot to the tip of the hood, a small delta at the rear of the hinge gets 'amplified' in physical displacement at the front of the hood.
BUT, 1/4 inch of offset/gap isn't small change. That's why I said there may be other issues here too like, the geometry of the replacement hood, the inner fender to fender attachment, and the rad core support shim/adjust. When a car's been hit and body work has been done, there's often more than one cause/effect issue for imperfect fit....- Top
Comment
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Re: 69 Hood Question
What I said and Gene's confirming is true. Your 'what am I missing" query is also valid and merits response/clarification.
Look at the hood hinge assy carefully. You'll see the bearing or pivot point is intentionally offset from center. This gives a cantilever effect. When you translate to/through the moment arm from the hinge pivot to the tip of the hood, a small delta at the rear of the hinge gets 'amplified' in physical displacement at the front of the hood.
BUT, 1/4 inch of offset/gap isn't small change. That's why I said there may be other issues here too like, the geometry of the replacement hood, the inner fender to fender attachment, and the rad core support shim/adjust. When a car's been hit and body work has been done, there's often more than one cause/effect issue for imperfect fit....- Top
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