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Hi...I have to pull the engine to overhaul it, 72 SB 4 spd. What is the easiest way to do it?
1. Remove engine and tranny as one unit?
2. Remove engine and bellhousing, leave tranny in car? Is it possible to re-install it in this manner?
Thx in advance
I recently pulled the engine and transmission from my '65 small block/Powerglide car as a unit. Using a tilting device on the hoist, the unit came out in minutes, and went back in with similar ease. The tilter allows pointing the transmission downward as it is lifted out or reinstalled, and cranking the unit horizontal as necessary. Makes the removal/installation a piece of cake, even for a novice like me.
I'm not sure if your shifter will clear the transmission tunnel; you may want to remove it before pulling the engine/transmission unit.
pulling engine w/o removing tranny so long as you get the hood and radiator off/out of your Shark before you start AND have a tiltable cherry picker. Also, make sure you've got the tranny supported from the bottom side SOLIDLY....
On re-install, expect to make a couple of passes to get the input spline to line up and slip-in. Do NOT try to force it it! Gently rock & jiggle and after a couple of tries, it'll find it's natural alignment and slide into place.
Only thing to ponder is: if it's time for engine overhaul, how far behind in the maintenance cycle can the tranny be??? When you pull the engine, the lion's share of R&R labor to access the tranny is already in the cards! Why not bite the bullet and get both of these major overhaul tasks done??? Same goes for clutch R&R....
Hi ..Thanks for the input...The tranny and clutch are in mint shape, did a body off 2 years ago to do the frame, didn't have the money to do it all at once. The engine is using oil, LT1, but they used oil anyway, just not this much.
I didn't have a "tilter", but I got it out anyway. I'll see about getting one to re-install. Had to stand on the a-arms and use the "arm strong" method to get it off the input shaft...piece of cake.
I bought mine from Summit many years ago - it was branded "Trans-Dapt" in those days; I think they've changed their name to "T-D" since then. About $60 for a good one - indispensable tool; makes the job (almost) a piece of cake, and I've done several with no helper. Has two chains on each end, and I bolt them to the extreme corner intake bolt holes in the heads with Grade 8 bolts and hardened washers.
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