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I spent all day today (saturday) carefully trying to get my steering wheel hub off of my 67 steering column. I used the steering wheel puller tool I bought form Long Island. The bolts that attach to the hub distorted under pressure and I got no where. Any advise would be appreciated.
Sometimes, these things can be hell to remove. It gets "scary", too, because the splined collar in the hub is cast into the zinc-diecast hub material. It is possible to break the hub and/or strip out the threads for the puller screws. But, if you need to remove it, you need to remove it.
First, apply a good penetrating oil to the interface bewteen the shaft splines and the hub splines. Use GM Heat Valve Lubricant; it's about the best penetrating solvent out there.
Next, make sure that you're using a good, sturdy steering wheel puller. For this job, a light duty tool is not going to get it. I don't know what LI is selling, but it doesn't sound like it's a heavy duty tool. At a minimum, replace the bolts with SAE grade 8. I recommend the Kent-Morre tool J-1859-A (expensive) or tools made by Old Forge, Rimac or OTC.
Jace: after penetrating fluid sits overnite and with a good puller applying pressure, take a brass punch and tap the threaded end of the steering shaft being careful not to damage the threads. the hub usually pops off with a hammer tap. don't really whale on the shaft of you may be replacing the upper and lower shaft bearings( which you ought to do anyway) mike
I think I already know the answer to this question but do I have to take the hub off to get to the turn signal lever? It is pitted and does not work properly. I can see that I am in jeopardy of stripping the threads in the hub with the bolts that I am using. Any help here appreciated.
after putting on the puller and you are sure the grade 8 bolts are threaded all the way in to the hub,crank as much pressure on the puller as you can,then hit the center screw of the puller with brass or lead hammer. the shock should knock it loose.
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