body panels & rivets - NCRS Discussion Boards

body panels & rivets

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  • Larry Lena

    body panels & rivets

    I'm doing body repairs on a '68. At the nose where the fender and hood surround are bonded there is a rivet through the nose aand bonding strip on each side of the car. Was this done at the factory? The rivets look the same as the ones used to attach the nose bar to the nose. This caused a crack at the bonded seam.
  • Gene M.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 1, 1985
    • 4232

    #2
    Re: body panels & rivets

    Lary
    I going on memory, but I recall 6 rivets across the 68 nose. And yes time does work against the cars having a "straight" nose. The rivet bumps are and inevitable outcome.

    Comment

    • Wayne W.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • April 30, 1982
      • 3605

      #3
      Re: body panels & rivets

      There are rivets along the front under the bumper bar that hold the reinforcement bar in place, but none in the seam itself.

      Comment

      • Larry Lena

        #4
        Re: body panels & rivets

        Yeah, Wayne this rivet goes right through the front of the nose and bonding strip.

        Comment

        • Chuck S.
          Expired
          • April 1, 1992
          • 4668

          #5
          Re: body panels & rivets

          On my 70, there are five aluminum rivets behind the front bumper that attach a reinforcement...maybe this is the "nose bar" you describe. It sounds like you are describing a "sixth" rivet that is close to the bumper bolt hole on the corner.

          All I can tell you is that the later C3s, at least 70 and up, don't have a rivet in that location. Typically, aluminum rivets are used to attach metal brackets, reinforcements, etc. to the body fiberglass. I can't think of any instance on my 70 where rivets are used to attach fiberglass to fiberglass; fiberglass components are always bonded. But, maybe this is one of those 68 only features. Best authority would be your AIM; start looking in UPC 11/13.

          In any event, if the crack is of any consequence, you are probably going to have to remove the rivet, taper grind out the crack (down to the bonding strip if necessary) and laminate resin and mat to build the ground area back above contour. Then grind, sand, and apply body filler if necessary to recover the contour. You can then either replace the rivet in its original location if you find it's factory, or you can leave it out if it's a later addition.

          Comment

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