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Re: 1971 Side Mirror
This method DOES work, Gary. But, when I've done it, it wasn't a long term solution. Re-adjustment of the mirror (different drivers) caused the glue to scrape free of the ball/collar junction and the problem to return. Plus, some mirror are REALLY loose and, as I remember, the active ingredient in LocTite is cyanoacrylite (AKA 'Super Glue') which is an anaerobic setting bond (you squeeze the air out of the bond junction and the glue sets up). So, results should vary with the degree of 'slop' at hand.
Terry McManmon commented that the mirror glass to frame bond could be freed by soaking the mirror overnight in lacquer thinner. I just looked inside a current GM Reproduction mirror and noted the bond agent for the glass is clear RTV (silicon bathtub caulk). I don't think RTV will let go in a bath of lacquer thinner.
Now, Terry DID say his approach was valid for factory original mirrors. Those that I've opened had the glass bonded with what appeared to be 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Since factory original mirrors and GM Licensed Reproduction units look identical from the outside, some might try the lacquer thinner soak method without sucess (mirror got replaced somewhere along the line).
But, a prior post of mine said the dated glass could be obtained separately at a rather inexpensive rate, so it's possible to crack the glass out and replace to gain access to the innards. I also mentioned a rather tedious method to R&R the steel tension plate and last night a fellow NCRS member mentioned another interesting approach.
He said he'd taken an ordinary thin washer with appropriate ID hole and crammed it between the mount ball and tension plate to absorb wear 'slop'. Said he had to eyeball the assy and grind/mill the washer to obtain a suitable thickness, but claimed the 'trick' worked....
This method DOES work, Gary. But, when I've done it, it wasn't a long term solution. Re-adjustment of the mirror (different drivers) caused the glue to scrape free of the ball/collar junction and the problem to return. Plus, some mirror are REALLY loose and, as I remember, the active ingredient in LocTite is cyanoacrylite (AKA 'Super Glue') which is an anaerobic setting bond (you squeeze the air out of the bond junction and the glue sets up). So, results should vary with the degree of 'slop' at hand.
Terry McManmon commented that the mirror glass to frame bond could be freed by soaking the mirror overnight in lacquer thinner. I just looked inside a current GM Reproduction mirror and noted the bond agent for the glass is clear RTV (silicon bathtub caulk). I don't think RTV will let go in a bath of lacquer thinner.
Now, Terry DID say his approach was valid for factory original mirrors. Those that I've opened had the glass bonded with what appeared to be 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Since factory original mirrors and GM Licensed Reproduction units look identical from the outside, some might try the lacquer thinner soak method without sucess (mirror got replaced somewhere along the line).
But, a prior post of mine said the dated glass could be obtained separately at a rather inexpensive rate, so it's possible to crack the glass out and replace to gain access to the innards. I also mentioned a rather tedious method to R&R the steel tension plate and last night a fellow NCRS member mentioned another interesting approach.
He said he'd taken an ordinary thin washer with appropriate ID hole and crammed it between the mount ball and tension plate to absorb wear 'slop'. Said he had to eyeball the assy and grind/mill the washer to obtain a suitable thickness, but claimed the 'trick' worked....
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