Had a shop replace the tach in my car. When they re-installed the steering column they pinched a wire for the horn. They returned it to me with the column brackets loose. When tightening the bracket/ support this weekend the horn would sound if the bracket was tightened. Left the bracket just tight enough to not sound the horn. Took the car for a run and when I returned to the garage I tested the horn and it would not work and the relay was very hot. Disconnected the battery and you could hear the relay release, it was cooked. I have replaced the relay and when I push the horn button all the relay does is click/buzz. Could there be further problems? ie: the horns themselves. The horn did work before I tighted the bracket/ support yesterday. Shop is closed for a couple of days for Canada Day holiday. HELP!!
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Re: 66 C2 Horn Problem
If the shop did not immediately disconnect either the battery or the horns, the horns themselves will burn out quickly (a couple of minutes at most)Check each horn with a 12V jumper wire to see if this is the case.Bill Clupper #618 -
Re: 66 C2 Horn Problem. Update for Bill
Bill, When I run my test light from the + term. to the horn connection the light comes on with no sound. My guess is that both horns are toast. Also when I push the horn button the relay clicks and the dash ammeter swings strongly negative. Looks like it's back to the junkyard tomorrow.Comment
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Re: 66 C2 Horn Problem. Update for Bill
Try using just a piece of wire from the battery + to the horn terminal. A test lite is NOT a jumper wire... it is a test of presence of power on a point. In your case, you tested the battery power using the horn and its internal coil as "ground". Good luck.Comment
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Re: 66 C2 Horn Problem. FWIW
I just bought a set of 66 Corvair horns for $30.00. They work perfectly. The bracket and orientation is slightly different from the Corvette and wouldn't fool a seasoned judge but 30 bucks is better than close to 400/set for the real deal.
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