C2 Brakeline Leak

[George C.]

I have replaced all the brake lines on my 65 roadster, and have one leak I can not stop. The main line that goes from the master cylinder to the brass block is weeping, and so am I. These are steel, not stainless, all fittings went together nicely and I had not concerns till I finished bleeding the system and found brake fluid on my shiny newly painted frame. Not wanting to do this more than once more, I am looking for advise. Should I try a little more wrench, try some kind of pipe sealant, or call the vendor and order a new line and maybe a new brass block. BTW the old lines were fine, I only changed them due to age and some visible rust on the outside surfaces. Part of a cleaning painting and rebuilding the suspension project.

Thanks in advance for you help,

George

[Patrick H.]

Re: C2 Brakeline Leak

George,

Make sure you use the proper flare wrench, and tighten it a little more. I had the same problem with a couple of connections at the brass distribution block. Some of these are not the easiest to tighten as well as we should.

I suspect a new block and/or other lines would not help one bit.

Patrick

[Jerry Clark]

Re: C2 Brakeline Leak

George
Keeping in mind that the M/C is cast and the distribution block is brass;
Loosen the problem line at the M/C and the block, using a tubing wrench attempt to snug the line at the block FIRST. Tighten the line at the M/C afterward. This assembly is not precise by any means and the line manufacturers bending equipment varies greatly. Aligning the line to the distribution block first offers you the most latitude and, therefore your best chance of a leak free connection.
This same technique works well with fuel lines, (especially tri powers), that continue leaking. Loosening all the lines then start where the problem originates, (usually the line to carburetor line).
If the problem continues I suggest replacing the line yet again, it may be deformed either by tightening, misalignment or manufacture.
As an afterthought; one of the advantages of DOT 5 is the fact no paint problems occur while rectifying leaks.
Just my opinion
Good Luck
jer

[Duke W.]

Re: C2 Brakeline Leak

When installing flare fittings I torque them three times - that is, torque, loosen, torque, loosen... This will cause the flare on the tube to comform to the male fitting, which functions as a die. Be sure to use a proper tubing wrench.

Duke

[Larry S.]

Re: C2 Brakeline Leak

Should I try a little more wrench.

I have to comment on this when ever working on brake lines or any type of a Mecanical steel tube fitting.I always use flare wrenches (very afordable at sears)and a good solid back up wrench.Never allow the brass conection block's mounting to serve as your back up,Put a back up wrench (If you dont understand what a back up wrench is for ask and Ill post a picture of it in use)on it so you can really torque it down.I also do as Duke does with the 3 time's torqued is a charm.But I also use lube (brake fluid for brake lines) on my fittings.I also run the fitting in as far as I can by hand (I wiggel the steel lines) to assure no stripped or misaligned fittings.I do heating and cooling as a proffesion and when ever I am working on fuel lines I use a sealent called leak lock.You only use the tinyest amount(about half of a tear drop)on the end of the threads and it also acts as a sealant and lube that is not seen after the joint is complete.If you use too much its all over.I have always used this as a more of a lube to really torque down on a fitting.

Good luck and be safe.

[Al Corelli]

Re: C2 Brakeline Leak

I'll second the use of Leak Lock.
Great stuff.

AC

[George C.]

Re: C2 Brakeline Leak

To all, I want to say thank you again. I used Duke's method of backing off and then tightening the brake line fitting again and that cured my problem. Once again this forum has saved me time, money and aggravation. I was ready to go order another new line and a new brass block, when some good advice was all I needed.

Thank you,

George