Brake Master Cylinder (1968)

[Kurt B.]

Probably a dumb question to those of you who know, but since I don't here goes:
After I have rebuilt my master cylinder and bench bled it, how do I get it installed into my 68 coupe without brake fluid running down the side of the master cylinder and taking off all the paint?
There is presently no fluid in the lines or the wheel calipers as they have been rebuilt so the only fluid will be in the master cylinder itself.
Will it drip from the holes where the brake lines attach or will it not drip since the pedal is not depressed. Sorry for my ignorance but I don't understand the internal workings of the master cylinder.
Also, after I have bench bled it, can I assume that by bleeding all 4 individual wheel calipers that any air in the system will thus be removed or do I have to "crack open" the lines at the master cylinders. The rebuilder sealed the bleeder screws on the master cylinder so they can not be used for bleeding.
Thank you fo rany advice,
Kurt Bunting # 26406

[Jerry Clark]

Re: Brake Master Cylinder (1968)

Hi Kurt
Long time, no talk
I keep two old lines crimped off threaded into the outlets. Install the M.C then remove one, install the line then repeat. I am sure others have more sophisticated methods but this works just fine. Keep the lid on the M/C.
There should be no need to bleed the M/C again. Cover everything below the M/Cs mounted position with plactic wrap or aluminum foil as some will still get away.
P.S. Bleeding the rears on a 68-69 can be a PITA for some unknown reason?
Jer
Write once and awhile

[Kurt B.]

Re: Brake Master Cylinder (1968)

Thanks Jerry.
Just e-mailed ya.
Kurt

[Jim T.]

Re: Brake Master Cylinder (1968)

Kurt I use the same method as Jerry. Did the rebuilder tell you why he sealed the master cylinder bleeder valves and what did he use?

[Kurt B.]

Re: Brake Master Cylinder (1968)

Jim,
Rebuilder (Apple Hydraulics) claims there is a piece of a drill bit broken off in the bottom of one of the bleeder screws and if they tried to drill it out to remove, they would spoil the bleeder seat and cut through into the bore.(???). Since I hunted high and low to get a correct numbered master cylinder, I guess I will just have to live with it. I think they just screwed the bleeder screws in with lock tite or something like that. He told me not to remove the bleeders. The irony is years ago I took the original out of the car and replaced it with a NAPA unit. That was before I knew anything about NCRS and numbers on parts. I though all master cylinders were the same, didn't know about casting numbers and judging manuals.
My ignorance has cost me MANY dollars on this car over the years. Wish I knew about NCRS when I bought this car in 1972. I wouldn't have thrown away all those parts I have since spent an arm and a leg to buy.
Too soon old, to late smart.
Kurt

[Jim T.]

Re: Brake Master Cylinder (1968)

Kurt you are not alone in not saving original parts. My original owner 68 and 70 are missing alternators, one starter, one original aluminum radiator, one Rochester carb, and orignal calipers.